Saving the best for last, today we visited the Vatican, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica (actually the third St. Peter's), and St. Peter's square. These are places that we hear about in the news all the time, or learn about in history classes growing up; and yet the importance of finally be able to experience them first hand is (I must admit) sometimes lost on me. Often, it doesn't feel like I am actually inside the very room where cardinals have for centuries held conclave electing the next pope - and yet there I was! Or to stand before the tomb of Pope John Paul II and know his body is right there, buried right in front of me -- well, I think sometimes it's just too overwhelming to fully grasp the gravity of the environment you are in at the time. Only afterwards, after I have a chance to reflect on the day's events, can I be like wow -- that is truly incredible! Sometimes I wish I could have that thought process while experiencing something, but I think more often than not I'm just caught up in the moment and am not able to appreciate these things until afterwards. Moreover, I think often I am just in shock that I'm actually finally seeing something (like the Colosseum) that I have read and heard so much about, and seen depicted in so many movies, and this shock overwhelms me. Does anyone else feel this way?
It has been so nice traveling with my parents and all the generosity that comes along with it. I must say, we have been eating at the nicest restaurants and enjoying some mighty fine and delicious Italian cusine with fabulous wines and flavors, and for that I am very grateful. Thanks for the great Christmas present Mom and Pops :).
To finish our last night in Rome we enjoyed a nice bottle of Chianti with bread and cheese while watching the sunset over the Colosseum. Tomorrow we head by train for Cinque Terre, or "The Five Villages" along the coast on the western side of the country of which I have heard great things and can't wait to see.
CM
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Friday, July 29, 2011
The Colosseum.
Although not the oldest structure I've visited, the Colosseum built in the first century is pretty darn close. To stand in the arena and think about how much has happened here, and the history of this place is truly unfathomable. Not only from the sense of the people that were attending events here in 1 AD, but also all the people I know that have walked through the stadium and under its arches (grandparents, aunts and uncles, friends) one, ten, twenty, or fifty years ago. This stadium stood witness to Constantine bringing Christianity to Rome, to the Crusades, the discovery of the new world, to two world wars and man landing on the moon. How is it that anything could survive for two millenia? Truly amazing...
Rome grew to be an empire between 500 BC and the time of Christ before peaking for the next 200 years (and subsequently fell from about 200-500 AD). Even in that short time they were able to accomplish enough that many aspects of their culture still have influence on nearly every aspect of modern life. Our political system founded on principles of democracy and a republic and checks and balances first appears in history in Rome. Roman culture influences are still seen in modern times in science, law, art, philosophy, religion, architecture and many more realms. This is truly an eternal society; and to visit the Forum where the city of Rome truly has its ancient roots is awe-inspiring.
It is so humbling to stand in front of something that has bared witness to so much, and will continue to do so for so much more time; you feel so small in comparison (not only physically but of course temporally as well). What an awesome feeling.
CM
Rome grew to be an empire between 500 BC and the time of Christ before peaking for the next 200 years (and subsequently fell from about 200-500 AD). Even in that short time they were able to accomplish enough that many aspects of their culture still have influence on nearly every aspect of modern life. Our political system founded on principles of democracy and a republic and checks and balances first appears in history in Rome. Roman culture influences are still seen in modern times in science, law, art, philosophy, religion, architecture and many more realms. This is truly an eternal society; and to visit the Forum where the city of Rome truly has its ancient roots is awe-inspiring.
It is so humbling to stand in front of something that has bared witness to so much, and will continue to do so for so much more time; you feel so small in comparison (not only physically but of course temporally as well). What an awesome feeling.
CM
When in Rome.
Yesterday morning started umm...expensively. After being told that an airport shuttle bus existed where one did not, and waiting around for said non-existent bus, I ended up having to take a taxi 45 minutes to the airport to insure I did not miss my flight from Milan to Rome. At the low cost of 100 euro, this was far and away the most expensive cab ride I've ever taken and ever plan to take. Definitely an unexpected cost. However, I was able to conserve some money in Milan and spend only about 50 euro (including hostel) for my two days there which made me feel good, and now of course I am under the gracious wings of my folks.
Speaking of such wonderful people, I ran into them coming around a corner on the way to the hotel after a short plane ride, bus ride, and metro ride. Although my parents feel the room is a bit small, coming from six and eight bed dormrooms in hostels I think the hotel room is incredibly luxorious. When asked by my Mom how the shower was, I said there was water and it wasn't ice cold what more could I want? It's nice to finally be able to have real meals at nice restaurants and be able to experience the edible part of Italian culture (I was admittedly going on nutella sandwiches for a bit there).
Yesterday we visited the Trevi Fountain, pantheon, and a variety of other piazzas and churches. Today we started with the colosseum and the forum, before visiting the Borghese Gallery and more churches (many more churches). Plus also the Spanish steps to watch the sunset over the city and back to the Trevi fountain at night. It looks entirely different and was well worth it to go out of our way to see it again. We also got a nice family photo for the Christmas card in front of the Trevi Fountain so I know Mom is happy now...which of course makes everyone happy :-).
CM
Speaking of such wonderful people, I ran into them coming around a corner on the way to the hotel after a short plane ride, bus ride, and metro ride. Although my parents feel the room is a bit small, coming from six and eight bed dormrooms in hostels I think the hotel room is incredibly luxorious. When asked by my Mom how the shower was, I said there was water and it wasn't ice cold what more could I want? It's nice to finally be able to have real meals at nice restaurants and be able to experience the edible part of Italian culture (I was admittedly going on nutella sandwiches for a bit there).
Yesterday we visited the Trevi Fountain, pantheon, and a variety of other piazzas and churches. Today we started with the colosseum and the forum, before visiting the Borghese Gallery and more churches (many more churches). Plus also the Spanish steps to watch the sunset over the city and back to the Trevi fountain at night. It looks entirely different and was well worth it to go out of our way to see it again. We also got a nice family photo for the Christmas card in front of the Trevi Fountain so I know Mom is happy now...which of course makes everyone happy :-).
CM
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Milano.
Of the following, which do you think cost the most: one, an overnight bus from Istanbul to Plovdiv; two, three nights lodging in Plovdiv; or three, a shuttle bus from the Milano-Bergamo airport to the metro station? You know...I'm still to a little depressed about this to answer so I'll just let you guess. Suffice it to say, when I went to the money change with about 150 TL and 100 Lev and received 37 Euro back I was not happy. But I digress...
Milano is Italian to a t. Everybody here dresses so well - young and old, man, woman and child. I guess I never realized how fashion capital this city was (perhaps I should have). After flying in this mornig on RyanAir I checked into my hostel (which resembles more of a military barrack and shall here on be referred to as Camp Pendleton) and bought a two-day metro ticket (good choice as it's already paid for itself).
I spent most of the day checking out the Duomo and around. Climbing to the top was breath-taking (literally - 201 steps - and figuratively). The views made it worth it and the detailed architecture and butresses were fantastic. I have no idea how it was built in the 13th c. AND survived all the bombings. I really don't know what I'm going to do tomorrow. Bored in Milan? Wow, that is quite pretentious of me. But truth is, I'm just not that into shopping, and I can only look at old churches for so long -- and I need a non-church day before Rome! Nonetheless the Duomo was spectacular, and the metro here is very convienent and easy to use.
I miss the quietness of Plovdiv a little, and also all the spectacle of all the waitresses in matching skirts/shorts and tops. Sure, wait staff in America wear uniforms but these outfits seem more like what you might find in a gentleman's club -- which stood in stark contrast to Istanbul where there was not a single female waitress, and always and only we were served by men (something I didn't really notice until I left).
After tomorrow I'm heading to Rome which will be great. A, it's Rome; B, my family; and C and most importantly -- I can stop eating nutella sandwiches in Italy because someone else will be paying (thanks Mom and Pops!). Seriously, I can NOT get over how expensive everything is here...especially compared to last summer in...
***...Don't think of how stupid cheap India was, Don't think of how stupid cheap India was, Don't think of how stupid cheap India was...***
Oh! And I finally was able to utilize my Spanish to help two nice women from Mexico find their way (I no longer feel so inadequate with no German, French, Turkish, Bulgarian, or Italian).
CM
Milano is Italian to a t. Everybody here dresses so well - young and old, man, woman and child. I guess I never realized how fashion capital this city was (perhaps I should have). After flying in this mornig on RyanAir I checked into my hostel (which resembles more of a military barrack and shall here on be referred to as Camp Pendleton) and bought a two-day metro ticket (good choice as it's already paid for itself).
I spent most of the day checking out the Duomo and around. Climbing to the top was breath-taking (literally - 201 steps - and figuratively). The views made it worth it and the detailed architecture and butresses were fantastic. I have no idea how it was built in the 13th c. AND survived all the bombings. I really don't know what I'm going to do tomorrow. Bored in Milan? Wow, that is quite pretentious of me. But truth is, I'm just not that into shopping, and I can only look at old churches for so long -- and I need a non-church day before Rome! Nonetheless the Duomo was spectacular, and the metro here is very convienent and easy to use.
I miss the quietness of Plovdiv a little, and also all the spectacle of all the waitresses in matching skirts/shorts and tops. Sure, wait staff in America wear uniforms but these outfits seem more like what you might find in a gentleman's club -- which stood in stark contrast to Istanbul where there was not a single female waitress, and always and only we were served by men (something I didn't really notice until I left).
After tomorrow I'm heading to Rome which will be great. A, it's Rome; B, my family; and C and most importantly -- I can stop eating nutella sandwiches in Italy because someone else will be paying (thanks Mom and Pops!). Seriously, I can NOT get over how expensive everything is here...especially compared to last summer in...
***...Don't think of how stupid cheap India was, Don't think of how stupid cheap India was, Don't think of how stupid cheap India was...***
Oh! And I finally was able to utilize my Spanish to help two nice women from Mexico find their way (I no longer feel so inadequate with no German, French, Turkish, Bulgarian, or Italian).
CM
Monday, July 25, 2011
10,000 cats and a Hungarian Jew from Australia.
One of my favorite parts about staying in hostels is all the people you meet from all over the world. Last night sitting on a quiet balcony overlooking the city of Plovidv I was joined by someone from Holland, Germany, Bulgaria, France, Italy, and yes, a Hungarian Jew from Australia. Conveniently of course, the common language between all these people is English -- I used to think it was pompous of me to want others to hold a conversation in English, but I'm beginning to realize that English is the first second language many others choose to learn because it is so universal in so many parts of the world. Many foreigners from all parts of Europe (and other countries) communicate with people at restaurants and the like in English. Lucky us, I suppose...
Anyways, the Hungarian was sharing some of his stories from surviving the holocaust and how most of his family members didn't make it, and in fact were killed days before the Russians liberated Budapest. What an amazing story this man had to share. We also discussed how history is repeating itself, and everything that has been happening to the Roma in recent years. If only we could learn from our mistakes. Further, we talked about the differences between western and eastern Europe (obviously I am not one to make judgement on the sort but it was fascinating listening to these Europeans discuss the differences and similarities in their cultures). One thing we could all agree on, though, was that in all our travels it always seems as if those with the least (speaking strictly from a monetary stand point) are the happiest and most joyful, most full of hope...and those with the most (generally western societies) are those that are the most stressed and the most unhappy. These characteristics - or views or feelings - always seem to be especially expressed in the actions, or inactions, of the children in these cultures. I certainly felt like this in India and Nepal, compared with kids in America. For instance, the child on the street in Calcutta has not even a pair of shoes, and yet has everything; and a child in America has everything, and yet still it is not enough.
Oh, and we finally came to an agreement that the number of stray cats in Plovdiv equaled exactly 18,000.
CM
Anyways, the Hungarian was sharing some of his stories from surviving the holocaust and how most of his family members didn't make it, and in fact were killed days before the Russians liberated Budapest. What an amazing story this man had to share. We also discussed how history is repeating itself, and everything that has been happening to the Roma in recent years. If only we could learn from our mistakes. Further, we talked about the differences between western and eastern Europe (obviously I am not one to make judgement on the sort but it was fascinating listening to these Europeans discuss the differences and similarities in their cultures). One thing we could all agree on, though, was that in all our travels it always seems as if those with the least (speaking strictly from a monetary stand point) are the happiest and most joyful, most full of hope...and those with the most (generally western societies) are those that are the most stressed and the most unhappy. These characteristics - or views or feelings - always seem to be especially expressed in the actions, or inactions, of the children in these cultures. I certainly felt like this in India and Nepal, compared with kids in America. For instance, the child on the street in Calcutta has not even a pair of shoes, and yet has everything; and a child in America has everything, and yet still it is not enough.
Oh, and we finally came to an agreement that the number of stray cats in Plovdiv equaled exactly 18,000.
CM
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Learning the Cyrillic alphabet.
The first thing I noticed as I crossed the border shortly after midnight was that Bulgarian is written in the Cyrillic alphabet. Looking similar to the Greek alphabet, and yet entirely different, it is nearly impossible to make any phonetic pronounciation of the words printed on street signs and the like -- indeed in many places words are written both in the Cyrillic alphabet and in the Roman (or Latin) alphabet.
I arrived in Plovdiv at 3:30 in the morning and grabbed a taxi to where I knew there were hostels, despite not having a reservation. Luckily, I chose a hostel with 24 hour check-in and they weren't even that surprised at my timing, and even guessed I was coming from Istanbul -- clealry I am not the first to make this journey. Taking the last creaky bed available in the hot and smelly eight bed dormroom, I was grateful for not being locked out on the street some where.
Today I spent touring Old Plovdiv and tomorrow I will take a day trip to a local monastery. The streets in this part of town were narrow and covered in old cobblestone which probably have not been replaced in three or five centuries. Old wooden homes rise up behind high concrete walls, with an occasional open gate letting one peer into the unknown. There are many old churches, house museums, and ancient roman ruins lining the streets. Although many of the roman amphitheatres are still holding shows, I don't think I'll be able to attend any.
An interesting thought from today: some kids were begging in one of the main squares, and all I could think was this -- they had shoes, a full set of clothes, and did not look particularly malnourished or dirty. All I could think was that compared to the kids I worked with in India, these children were wealthy. Am I really still that cynical and effected by my experinces one year ago? Also, it still boils my blood when people see those commercials on TV about the animals being neglected, or a stray dog or cat, and care more about that injustice than all the starving children in the world... (sorry for the random tangent/rant.)
CM
I arrived in Plovdiv at 3:30 in the morning and grabbed a taxi to where I knew there were hostels, despite not having a reservation. Luckily, I chose a hostel with 24 hour check-in and they weren't even that surprised at my timing, and even guessed I was coming from Istanbul -- clealry I am not the first to make this journey. Taking the last creaky bed available in the hot and smelly eight bed dormroom, I was grateful for not being locked out on the street some where.
Today I spent touring Old Plovdiv and tomorrow I will take a day trip to a local monastery. The streets in this part of town were narrow and covered in old cobblestone which probably have not been replaced in three or five centuries. Old wooden homes rise up behind high concrete walls, with an occasional open gate letting one peer into the unknown. There are many old churches, house museums, and ancient roman ruins lining the streets. Although many of the roman amphitheatres are still holding shows, I don't think I'll be able to attend any.
An interesting thought from today: some kids were begging in one of the main squares, and all I could think was this -- they had shoes, a full set of clothes, and did not look particularly malnourished or dirty. All I could think was that compared to the kids I worked with in India, these children were wealthy. Am I really still that cynical and effected by my experinces one year ago? Also, it still boils my blood when people see those commercials on TV about the animals being neglected, or a stray dog or cat, and care more about that injustice than all the starving children in the world... (sorry for the random tangent/rant.)
CM
A comparison of bus rides around the world.
Bus ride in India:
- possibility of no seat, or if you do have one you share it with two others
- no AC with very bumpy roads and slow travel
- random stops for food and toilet, maybe
- loud, smelly, and constant honking
Bus ride from Istanbul to Plovdiv:
- two seats to myself, each seat has a video monitor like that of an airplane
- AC on well-maintened freeways, no honking
- toilet on bus with food service
- had to get off twice and spend one hour to cross the border
...and yet even with all those creature comforts I somehow find myself missing the experience of those oh so infamous bus rides through India and Nepal...
- possibility of no seat, or if you do have one you share it with two others
- no AC with very bumpy roads and slow travel
- random stops for food and toilet, maybe
- loud, smelly, and constant honking
Bus ride from Istanbul to Plovdiv:
- two seats to myself, each seat has a video monitor like that of an airplane
- AC on well-maintened freeways, no honking
- toilet on bus with food service
- had to get off twice and spend one hour to cross the border
...and yet even with all those creature comforts I somehow find myself missing the experience of those oh so infamous bus rides through India and Nepal...
Saturday, July 23, 2011
On to Plovdiv.
I began this morning by visiting the cisterns. Given there was no line I thought I was in the wrong place, but realized later in the day that people go there to escape the midday heat so by 2:00 in the afternoon the line was out the door and around the corner! Glad I beat that rush... It was cool (pun intended) down below and really neat to see. I ate lunch on the shore of the Golden Horn straight where boats were docked along the pier -- on one side catching fresh fish and on the other serving fresh fish sandwiches. I just wish someone had warned me of all the bones...
I spent the afternoon relaxing in Sultanahmet Park in which I thought I was occupying a shade space only big enough for one - ha, silly me! Soon after I sat down, a nice family from Kuwait sat down and before long we had struck up a conversation. It was delightful, ending in them trying to convince me to come to Kuwait and stay with them...such friendly people.
I now wait in my hostel before it's time to leave for the bus station to take an overnight bus to Plovdiv. Like most times in my travels after spending a week in a city, it is just starting to feel like I belong and I'm just starting to get the hang of things - that feeling will be missed. However, I'm excited for a change of scenery and the challenges that tomorrow will certainly bring (i.e. no hostel booked, but hey that just means my options of where to stay are endless).
On a final note, it was weird (and kind of lonely) spending the day alone, but it's just something I'll have to get used to.
I spent the afternoon relaxing in Sultanahmet Park in which I thought I was occupying a shade space only big enough for one - ha, silly me! Soon after I sat down, a nice family from Kuwait sat down and before long we had struck up a conversation. It was delightful, ending in them trying to convince me to come to Kuwait and stay with them...such friendly people.
I now wait in my hostel before it's time to leave for the bus station to take an overnight bus to Plovdiv. Like most times in my travels after spending a week in a city, it is just starting to feel like I belong and I'm just starting to get the hang of things - that feeling will be missed. However, I'm excited for a change of scenery and the challenges that tomorrow will certainly bring (i.e. no hostel booked, but hey that just means my options of where to stay are endless).
On a final note, it was weird (and kind of lonely) spending the day alone, but it's just something I'll have to get used to.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Good friends in a small world.
As I'm writing this I'm sitting on the rooftop terrace of my hostel, watching an orange harvest moon crest over the city of Istanbul. The city lights from the Asian side reflect off the calm golden horn straight, merging with the softer lights of the boats and seaside restaurants. The air is mixed with numerous languages from people staying at the hostel - from German to Italian to Turkish to English - and also the sounds of vendors hawking food and trinkets from the busy street below. Only an occassional horn breaks the norm (a welcome relief from previous cities visited). It's hard to believe I'm actually in Turkey, half way across the world from home and off to Bulgaria tomorrow. My bus won't leave until tomorrow evening, allowing me one more day in this city which I plan to use to visit an underground waterway system.
After traveling with only one person for five days, you learn a lot about them...perhaps too much. Although I should not be surprised by this from spending so long with Bob and Carrie in India, and the same 25 people on my semester abroad in University, it was different somehow. I must admit, when I first asked Elli to come I was myself hesitant - sure we became friends in India but that was so long ago. I worried after a brief friendly reunion we would have nothing to talk about and be like "uhhhh..." for the next four days. But I could not have been any farther from the truth. In fact, we talked so much that by day two I felt we had nothing left to talk about, but on day three there were new topics. And by day five, we'd covered so much that we even started telling each other the same thing over again -- but neither of us stopped the other because at least hey, it was something to talk about haha. I learned more about Austrian and European culture in the last five days than I have my whole life (and I could not be more grateful), and I know she feels the same about American culture.
Sharing a final tea before she left, I remarked how amazing it is that two people, having met each other for only a few weeks in India - one from America and one from Austria - would ever be sitting with each other having tea in Turkey one year later...certainly neither of us ever forsaw this in our future one year ago! And what a beautifully small world we live in to allow this happen...
I'm very excited to meet up with my family in Italy, but first I hope I learn as much about myself in the next week traveling alone as I did this past week about Austria traveling with Elli.
CM
After traveling with only one person for five days, you learn a lot about them...perhaps too much. Although I should not be surprised by this from spending so long with Bob and Carrie in India, and the same 25 people on my semester abroad in University, it was different somehow. I must admit, when I first asked Elli to come I was myself hesitant - sure we became friends in India but that was so long ago. I worried after a brief friendly reunion we would have nothing to talk about and be like "uhhhh..." for the next four days. But I could not have been any farther from the truth. In fact, we talked so much that by day two I felt we had nothing left to talk about, but on day three there were new topics. And by day five, we'd covered so much that we even started telling each other the same thing over again -- but neither of us stopped the other because at least hey, it was something to talk about haha. I learned more about Austrian and European culture in the last five days than I have my whole life (and I could not be more grateful), and I know she feels the same about American culture.
Sharing a final tea before she left, I remarked how amazing it is that two people, having met each other for only a few weeks in India - one from America and one from Austria - would ever be sitting with each other having tea in Turkey one year later...certainly neither of us ever forsaw this in our future one year ago! And what a beautifully small world we live in to allow this happen...
I'm very excited to meet up with my family in Italy, but first I hope I learn as much about myself in the next week traveling alone as I did this past week about Austria traveling with Elli.
CM
A day on the beach.
Yesterday we visited the Prince's Islands, a small group of islands about a 1.5 hour ferry ride off the coast of Istanbul. Although the islands themselves did not have much to offer from a sightseeing perspective, it was perfect in that it was a break from the busy city life -- the islands don't even have cars on them. It's also a vacation destination for many locals, so it was cool to see what many Istanbulians (?) do when they have a free day to escape the city. Elli and I spent much of the day hiking through the pine forests on the islands and laying on the white sandy beaches enjoying some sun and people watching the local flare. It was great to do nothing all day after a few hard days of touring. We also enjoyed a popular treat, a "sweet waffle" which was quite delicious. We found a small pastry shop with tea that was ridiculously cheap, which is always nice. Run by an elderly couple it was right on the shore, providing yet another splendid view.
This morning we toured the Topaki Palace and also saw one of the sultan's daggers which included the fifth largest known diamond in the world -- yes, it was big. In the afternoon we headed back to the main bazaar and spice bazaar to finish shopping and pick up some spices...they are so cheap here compared to Austria (says Elli) so I have to assume it is the same for America (yes mother I love to cook but I have not bought Indian Saffron in quite some time).
In the evening to celebrate our last night together we watched the most magnificent sunset over the sea from the rocky shoreline watching all the tankers coming in and going out from port -- truly a sight to see. Being in land-locked West Lafayette I forget how much fun it is to be next to such a large body of water (can I call it an ocean? It sure feels like it haha).
This morning we toured the Topaki Palace and also saw one of the sultan's daggers which included the fifth largest known diamond in the world -- yes, it was big. In the afternoon we headed back to the main bazaar and spice bazaar to finish shopping and pick up some spices...they are so cheap here compared to Austria (says Elli) so I have to assume it is the same for America (yes mother I love to cook but I have not bought Indian Saffron in quite some time).
In the evening to celebrate our last night together we watched the most magnificent sunset over the sea from the rocky shoreline watching all the tankers coming in and going out from port -- truly a sight to see. Being in land-locked West Lafayette I forget how much fun it is to be next to such a large body of water (can I call it an ocean? It sure feels like it haha).
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Lost in Istanbul (as good times would have it).
We began our day visiting the Aya Sofya, a mosque built a really long time ago (originally circa 11th c.) with an amazingly decorative free standing dome. How an architectural feat of this magnitude would be completed today is hard to fathom, much less nearly a millennium ago. I'm still trying to wrap my head around this. Many of the original mosaics were still intact inside, adding to its celestial beauty.
After grabbing a quick lunch we spent much of our time in the western district of Istanbul, an area where many tourists do not take the time to venture to. Not only do I know this because the guide book said so, but it was made quite apparent by the number of stares we received walking through the small alleys and narrow cobblestone backstreets of what I can only presume to be a more true representation of a "realer" Istanbul than the more touted and visited tour districts on the eastern edge of the European side. On the western edge many of the women were dressed much more traditionally as I had orginally anticipated of a predominantly Muslim city. We visited a large local market, obviously where the locals did their shopping and not at the main bazaar where many tourists shop -- the prices were much better here and we saw very few other tourists.
After the market we were taking a short break and were invited to join two older men for tea outside their shop. This is the hospitality that I remember so well from Egypt, and what I am beginning to believe to be an intrinsic part of Islamic culture, Istanbul, and I'm sure much of Turkey as well. Although they spoke absolutely no English or German (and us obviously no Turkish), we enjoyed a friendly "conversation" expressing our love of Istanbul and our gratitude for their generosity -- these our the memories which will stick out the most when I remember my travels.
We were able to take a 30 min ferry ride back for 1.50 TL (Turkish Lira which is about $1). We ate dinner at the "Pudding Shop", made famous in the early 1960s as one of the first places in the area to provide local travel information to the hippie generation of backpacking tourists (and yes, the pudding was fantastic).
Tomorrow we shall head to the Prince's Islands for a day of R&R. We have been packing so much into our days but I wouldn't have it any other way. Still don't know how I'm getting to Bulgaria or where I'm staying so I hope to tackle that problem tomorrow as well!
CM
After grabbing a quick lunch we spent much of our time in the western district of Istanbul, an area where many tourists do not take the time to venture to. Not only do I know this because the guide book said so, but it was made quite apparent by the number of stares we received walking through the small alleys and narrow cobblestone backstreets of what I can only presume to be a more true representation of a "realer" Istanbul than the more touted and visited tour districts on the eastern edge of the European side. On the western edge many of the women were dressed much more traditionally as I had orginally anticipated of a predominantly Muslim city. We visited a large local market, obviously where the locals did their shopping and not at the main bazaar where many tourists shop -- the prices were much better here and we saw very few other tourists.
After the market we were taking a short break and were invited to join two older men for tea outside their shop. This is the hospitality that I remember so well from Egypt, and what I am beginning to believe to be an intrinsic part of Islamic culture, Istanbul, and I'm sure much of Turkey as well. Although they spoke absolutely no English or German (and us obviously no Turkish), we enjoyed a friendly "conversation" expressing our love of Istanbul and our gratitude for their generosity -- these our the memories which will stick out the most when I remember my travels.
We were able to take a 30 min ferry ride back for 1.50 TL (Turkish Lira which is about $1). We ate dinner at the "Pudding Shop", made famous in the early 1960s as one of the first places in the area to provide local travel information to the hippie generation of backpacking tourists (and yes, the pudding was fantastic).
Tomorrow we shall head to the Prince's Islands for a day of R&R. We have been packing so much into our days but I wouldn't have it any other way. Still don't know how I'm getting to Bulgaria or where I'm staying so I hope to tackle that problem tomorrow as well!
CM
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Kebaabs and Turkish Coffee.
Miraculously, I was somehow able to meet Elli as she stepped off the tram at the stop near our hostel with a similar dazed and confused look I shared hours earlier. Greeting her with open arms it was as if we had kept in touch perfectly for the past year (in reality I e-mailed her a week ago asking, "Meet me in Turkey?")...but such it is with good friends. We spent the evening catching up and smoking sheesha (flavored tabacco) along the Sea of Marmara like true locals.
The next day we were able to visit the Blue Mosque, main bazaar, and spice bazaar; plus many more mosques and sights and even walked to Asia (Istanbul is basically the only part of Turkey in Europe and is conected to the rest of the country by bridge, which is considered a part of Asia). The food we tried today was, needless to say, unlike any flavors I've ever tasted and left me completely speechless. Known largely for their kebaabs, the Turks have truly prefected this type of cusine to a heavenly level.
One museum of note was the "Istanbul Modern", showing contemporary art but not in the way you might think -- instead of that boring impressionistic junk (sorry mom) or random colors the five year old next door could do (sorry to whoever that offended) this museum offered contemporary art in the sense that it portrayed things you might not consider art. For instance, my favorite exhibit was one where hundreds of books in all languages were hanging from the ceiling about ten feet off the ground by string (one of which was "An Introduction to Statistical Inference" -- probably the reason this was my favorite exhibit). Others included a film of two orange peels shaped as people making love in front of a fire before being crinkled up by the heat, a film projected into a fluffy cloud hanging from the ceiling, a front yard of a home where one wall was a projection and in front of it a real tree with plastic trash hanging from it, and the other side a bench so you could sit and feel like you were in the piece of art, and finally a video of an old Greek man going through his daily routine (to name a few). But! I think the coolest part was that in all these videos there was no narration, no voices, just music. In that way, subtitles were unnecessary and people of all languages could enjoy the films on the same level. I really thought this aspect was quite thought-provoking.
After enjoying turkish coffee on a rooftop terrace watching the sunset over the centuries old skyline of Istanbul (one of my new favorite skylines), we returned to a park near our hostel to people watch and check out some of the mosques at night, lit up magestically with vibrant colors.
Before I arrived, many people told me this would quickly become my new favorite world city. Although judgement is still out, I must say they were not exaggerating. What I've found most interesting so far is how westernized Istanbul is for being a largely Muslim community. It is no where near as conservative as Egypt was, not only in terms of dress but also in the number of women I see alone (compaired to Cairo where women were rarely if ever unaccompanied by men, presumably their husbands). It truly seems like more of a western European city than one of (what I would percieve to be) a more typical central Asian (the PC way to say middle-eastern) city. With that said, the plethora of mosques around every corner, each as breathtaking as the next, and the constant call to prayer (five times per day), are traditional reminders that this is a predominantly Muslim city. Speaking of such, the call to prayer brings back such good memories of Egypt... Istanbul is also much cleaner than I expected, and certainly not as impoverised as other places I've recently visited (meaning it stands in stark contrast to India) so that has been at times refreshing. The transportation system is fantastic, and has proven, and I'm confident will continue to prove, to be most convenient.
Tomorrow we'll visit the Aya Sopha and partake in a self-guided walking tour which will lead us to the Chora Church which has come highly recommended.
CM
The next day we were able to visit the Blue Mosque, main bazaar, and spice bazaar; plus many more mosques and sights and even walked to Asia (Istanbul is basically the only part of Turkey in Europe and is conected to the rest of the country by bridge, which is considered a part of Asia). The food we tried today was, needless to say, unlike any flavors I've ever tasted and left me completely speechless. Known largely for their kebaabs, the Turks have truly prefected this type of cusine to a heavenly level.
One museum of note was the "Istanbul Modern", showing contemporary art but not in the way you might think -- instead of that boring impressionistic junk (sorry mom) or random colors the five year old next door could do (sorry to whoever that offended) this museum offered contemporary art in the sense that it portrayed things you might not consider art. For instance, my favorite exhibit was one where hundreds of books in all languages were hanging from the ceiling about ten feet off the ground by string (one of which was "An Introduction to Statistical Inference" -- probably the reason this was my favorite exhibit). Others included a film of two orange peels shaped as people making love in front of a fire before being crinkled up by the heat, a film projected into a fluffy cloud hanging from the ceiling, a front yard of a home where one wall was a projection and in front of it a real tree with plastic trash hanging from it, and the other side a bench so you could sit and feel like you were in the piece of art, and finally a video of an old Greek man going through his daily routine (to name a few). But! I think the coolest part was that in all these videos there was no narration, no voices, just music. In that way, subtitles were unnecessary and people of all languages could enjoy the films on the same level. I really thought this aspect was quite thought-provoking.
After enjoying turkish coffee on a rooftop terrace watching the sunset over the centuries old skyline of Istanbul (one of my new favorite skylines), we returned to a park near our hostel to people watch and check out some of the mosques at night, lit up magestically with vibrant colors.
Before I arrived, many people told me this would quickly become my new favorite world city. Although judgement is still out, I must say they were not exaggerating. What I've found most interesting so far is how westernized Istanbul is for being a largely Muslim community. It is no where near as conservative as Egypt was, not only in terms of dress but also in the number of women I see alone (compaired to Cairo where women were rarely if ever unaccompanied by men, presumably their husbands). It truly seems like more of a western European city than one of (what I would percieve to be) a more typical central Asian (the PC way to say middle-eastern) city. With that said, the plethora of mosques around every corner, each as breathtaking as the next, and the constant call to prayer (five times per day), are traditional reminders that this is a predominantly Muslim city. Speaking of such, the call to prayer brings back such good memories of Egypt... Istanbul is also much cleaner than I expected, and certainly not as impoverised as other places I've recently visited (meaning it stands in stark contrast to India) so that has been at times refreshing. The transportation system is fantastic, and has proven, and I'm confident will continue to prove, to be most convenient.
Tomorrow we'll visit the Aya Sopha and partake in a self-guided walking tour which will lead us to the Chora Church which has come highly recommended.
CM
Monday, July 18, 2011
Safely Arrived.
After figuring out which direction I needed to be heading on the train, and becoming fluent in Turkish so as to be able to read the all Turkish train ticket menu, I was on my way (I think). This is truly my favorite part of traveling and I instantly felt at home. Turkey reminds me of...Turkey? I expected it to look more like Egypt I think, but in reality it is much cleaner and more westernized -- definitely not as conservative which after talking to friends I had expected. When I reached my desired train stop I realized I truly had no idea where I was, and it was going to be an interesting time finding the hostel. But just then, two angels in blue wearing "free information" t-shirts walked up and pronounced I looked lost and asked if I needed help. Yes. Yes I did. Graciously, they offered to take me to my hostel. Success!
My hostel is incredible. For about 30 dollars a night we are right on the Sea of Marmara (which connects to the Aegean Sea which connects to the Mediterranean Sea) with a gorgeous rooftop terrace (with spectacular views of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya), with free wi-fi and breakfast. My friend Elli (from Vienna who I met in India last summer) arrives in a little bit and I´m very excited to see her.
The architecture here is mesmerizing, and I can't wait to get out and explore the city. I'll write more about my first impressions when I get a chance.
CM
My hostel is incredible. For about 30 dollars a night we are right on the Sea of Marmara (which connects to the Aegean Sea which connects to the Mediterranean Sea) with a gorgeous rooftop terrace (with spectacular views of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya), with free wi-fi and breakfast. My friend Elli (from Vienna who I met in India last summer) arrives in a little bit and I´m very excited to see her.
The architecture here is mesmerizing, and I can't wait to get out and explore the city. I'll write more about my first impressions when I get a chance.
CM
Last Night.
Before needing to be at the Purdue Airport at 7:00 am, I had a fantastıc last day in beautiful (cough) West Lafayette. I saw a bad movie with a pretty lady (which always makes it worth it), dinner with good friends, and then while pre-gaming we met the volleyball team who lives next to my buddy´s place...when I told them I cried when they lost they were skeptical and asked which team they lost too. Telling them they beat Florida before losing to Texas impressed them enough to give me a signed poster haha. Definitely no monetary value but lots of sentimental value (ha not really but yeah kinda). The night culminated with a fun trip to the local bars, saying my good-byes to so many people I´ve met -- truly amazing how my social lıfe grew this summer when I wasn´t in my office for 15 hours a day!
After a rough mornıng bus ride, and a short flight to JFK I was able to watch most of the Women´s soccer game. I have never flown into NYC before and ıt was absolutely beautiful. I arrıved in Istanbul after a ten hour flight and safely entered the country, eager to figure out how to make it to my hostel...
CM
After a rough mornıng bus ride, and a short flight to JFK I was able to watch most of the Women´s soccer game. I have never flown into NYC before and ıt was absolutely beautiful. I arrıved in Istanbul after a ten hour flight and safely entered the country, eager to figure out how to make it to my hostel...
CM
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Abroad Again.
For those who haven't heard, I will be traveling to Istanbul, Plovdiv, Italy, and Greece for one month (rough life I know -- but someone has to do it). As always with this blog, I will be updating you all with stories from my travels for the next month. For the new reader - welcome! And for the returning reader (thanks mom and pops!) I hope you continue to enjoy my stories as much as you have in the past, and continue to travel vicariously through me (Aunt Karen) as you have before -- and hopefully someday you'll be able to return the favor as you continue with your journeys.
A brief personal update: I have completed my first year of graduate school at Purdue where I am earning a MS in Statistics. This summer was spent with two internships: one through Purdue advising undergraduate students in their research and helping them incorporate statistics into their (mostly biologically related) projects; and the second working with the Minnesota Department of Health in their Emerging Infections Unit helping to develop a new way to predict what underlining conditions lead to invasive pneumococcal disease. Both have been very rewarding with possible authorship on publications which is also very exciting at this point in my career. And of course, great references and contacts and a foot in the door at a Dept of Health which is definitely something I could see myself doing.
But alas, I've rambled -- if you've gotten to this point, thank-you. I hope you enjoy reading my stories for the next four weeks.
CM
A brief personal update: I have completed my first year of graduate school at Purdue where I am earning a MS in Statistics. This summer was spent with two internships: one through Purdue advising undergraduate students in their research and helping them incorporate statistics into their (mostly biologically related) projects; and the second working with the Minnesota Department of Health in their Emerging Infections Unit helping to develop a new way to predict what underlining conditions lead to invasive pneumococcal disease. Both have been very rewarding with possible authorship on publications which is also very exciting at this point in my career. And of course, great references and contacts and a foot in the door at a Dept of Health which is definitely something I could see myself doing.
But alas, I've rambled -- if you've gotten to this point, thank-you. I hope you enjoy reading my stories for the next four weeks.
CM
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