Namaste!
We have just arrived in Pokhara, Nepal where 200,000 people would probably not exist except for the migration of hippies and vagabonds in the 1970s. Pokhara exists now almost entirely as a doorway to the Himalayas and Annapura Circut treks. A small part of town, aptly named as 'Old Pokhara', still exemplifies what made this place great before the 'tourist invasion'. We ourselves are currently occupying a residence on the north side of the lake, where we are paying the absorbant cost of 100 /rps per night (about $1.50); while a beer costs easily 200 /rps (about $3)...quite an interesting contrast to say the least.
Between Kathmandu and Pokhara we spent two nights at the small village of Bandipir. Our guest house was small and full of character, run by a family with two small children who I helped complete math problems. Their English was superb and most of there science and reading homework looked challenging, even for me! We toured the local school and it was amazing how well behaved the kids were and the level of their studies. I could now get up on my soap box and speak to the travesty that exists as our own public schools are horrible, but I think most of my readership already knows this and has no need to be bored by it...
In India everything was mainly a Hindu influence (obviously the influence of the Muslims, Sikhs, Jains, etc are there as well) but in Nepal it's all about Buddhism. The streets will often open up into an intersection which is more of a small square, or 'chowk' (pronounced 'choke'), which contains a small shrine or temple. I have truly never seen anywhere like the streets here. It's impeccably beautiful and the Buddhist culture here is fascinating. We took a bus to the mountain town of Duhlikel before hiking to Panauti via the "Namobuddha" which is a beautiful monastery high in the hills. Unfortunately, the Himalayas were covered in clouds as normal...hopefully the clouds will part before I leave here...
I graduated with a guy named Subhash from St. Olaf who received a $10,000 grant to build schools in Nepal. Well, as you may have guessed by now I met up with him here and we are going to travel to his home village so I'm pumped about that (no electricity or running water etc.).. He's kind of like the 'Greg Mortonsen of Nepal' if you will. So we'll do that after our time in Pokhara.
Right now I'm traveling with the attitude that my plans are I have a flight home from Delhi on Aug 10 but until then I'm just letting life take me where it goes and am really enjoying myself. At times I wish I was home, and at times I think I could continue traveling for another year...
We will continue back south to India on the fourth or fifth and spend a few days in Varanasi before returning home.
CM
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Saturday, July 17, 2010
no more chai... :-(
I have safely arrived in Kathmandu where we are staying at Hotel Potala; it's a little expensive but clean and we have access to free wi-fi! I miss India a lot, especially Kolkata where I knew so many people and the city itself - not only where to get good food and chai (which, by the way, is none existent so far and I am suffering severe depression) and where to buy water for the cheapest and other goods, but also just to know how much a fair taxi ride should cost. It's no secret that there are "local" prices and "foreign" prices and it's a rare treat to find an honest business man (or anyone selling a service), but such is the way here...
The train ride was exhausting, and the car ride was worse. After crossing the border we ended up taking a small 4WD jeep through the mountains which was a little more expensive but half the time of a bus. Oh, and there were 11 of us...I have pictures to prove it haha. I have no idea how we all fit, except to say as the only white people all the other Indians/Nepalese were quite small.
I think we will try and do some side sightseeing to various temples in the Kathmandu Valley before moving on. Being the big city that it is (relatively small, actually - 1 million here and 13.7 million in Kolkata) we do not want to spend much time here, but the surrounding valley is gorgeous. We are looking forward to the temples, but then we will try to move on quickly. From here I think we head to Chitwan National Park; apparently, it's a great place to see tigers!
CM
The train ride was exhausting, and the car ride was worse. After crossing the border we ended up taking a small 4WD jeep through the mountains which was a little more expensive but half the time of a bus. Oh, and there were 11 of us...I have pictures to prove it haha. I have no idea how we all fit, except to say as the only white people all the other Indians/Nepalese were quite small.
I think we will try and do some side sightseeing to various temples in the Kathmandu Valley before moving on. Being the big city that it is (relatively small, actually - 1 million here and 13.7 million in Kolkata) we do not want to spend much time here, but the surrounding valley is gorgeous. We are looking forward to the temples, but then we will try to move on quickly. From here I think we head to Chitwan National Park; apparently, it's a great place to see tigers!
CM
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Tieing loose ends.
On Saturday I'll be heading on to Siliguri, just south of Darjeeling and then traveling west through Nepal. Although I have enjoyed many experiences here, I'm also very excited to get out of Calcutta because it is so loud and obnoxious here, and I am ready to have a more relaxing time I think. I'm excited for what Nepal will bring.
We went with the family who lost their girl yesterday to the police station. They needed a picture of the daughter which luckily we had, but in reality there is probably nothing they can do. The police were largely if not completely unhelpful, but it definitely helped that there was a white person in the room - it always seems to cause government employees to act in a way in which there a supposed to, and respect the rights of citizens (there are police stations and hospitals set up specifically to help the street people).
Also, one of the volunteers I've met here, Christie, is filming a documentary so I've been helping her with that. She is focusing her story on a group of street boys who have been sent here by there families from surrounding villages to find work - most are between 5 and 15 and do odd jobs and are also "errand-boys" or pages for many of the local shop owners. Christie has also been teaching them English and basic math skills in her free time, when we're not treating the street kids and drug addicts for their wounds. Hopefully it will be as compelling a story on video as it has been getting to know these young men in real life.
CM
We went with the family who lost their girl yesterday to the police station. They needed a picture of the daughter which luckily we had, but in reality there is probably nothing they can do. The police were largely if not completely unhelpful, but it definitely helped that there was a white person in the room - it always seems to cause government employees to act in a way in which there a supposed to, and respect the rights of citizens (there are police stations and hospitals set up specifically to help the street people).
Also, one of the volunteers I've met here, Christie, is filming a documentary so I've been helping her with that. She is focusing her story on a group of street boys who have been sent here by there families from surrounding villages to find work - most are between 5 and 15 and do odd jobs and are also "errand-boys" or pages for many of the local shop owners. Christie has also been teaching them English and basic math skills in her free time, when we're not treating the street kids and drug addicts for their wounds. Hopefully it will be as compelling a story on video as it has been getting to know these young men in real life.
CM
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Naivety and Ignorance.
It has become harder and harder to deal with the pressure of the work to the point that I broke and had to take a few days off to just do nothing...absolutely nothing. I was scared to stop giving and volunteering, somehow thinking the patients I worked with needed me to the point that they wouldn't live without me. That somehow, I was a necessity to their well-being. And yet after returning to work, the patients were still there alive and kicking (sans a few perhaps). Despite the fact these patents were alive and well before my time here, I somehow thought I would make their lives immeasurably better. How ignorant of me... Sure, I could give a little love - but if I wasn't there surely other volunteers would have been. There are numerous year around, especially at this time of year given it is summer holiday for so many students.
As soon as I finally got this notion through my thick skull - that I was easily replaceable, that I was not some unique, one-of-a-kind being - an overwhelming humility came over me, almost to the point of feeling utterly insignificant. Such naivety I had to think I was somehow so integral to the good deeds accomplished here. Such naivety I had to think I would be saving the world my coming here...I can't even save one life. In the end, volunteering here often comes down to simply washing dishes, shaving a face, or helping to feed someone. Something that many are able and willing to do.
Before coming here, I thought serving in Calcutta would be the pinnacle of helping humanity and serving others. True, some of the most destitute and impoverished people on the planet live here, but that's not to say this is the almighty of serving. My time here as taught me that it doesn't matter where you are or how you do it, simply the selflessly serving of others - the pure act of this servitude - is what is most important in life (to me). There are so many people in my own country I can help and serve, and staying "home" to help others instead of coming half way around the world to do it in no way diminishes the act. In fact, it perhaps diminishes the act of coming here in the first place. The $1,400 I spent on a flight here could have accomplished infinitely more good had a just sent an organization like "Calcutta Rescue" a check, instead of coming here to serve.
Then again, maybe not. Maybe the act of being here truly is vastly important because now I have seen the worst of the worst with my own eyes and I have experienced it. I have a story to tell and motivation to continue benevolent acts. Had I just wrote a check, perhaps that would have been it...said and done...no more charitable acts and I would have gone on my way. But by coming here and experiencing this, I will never be able to forget the things I've seen and certainly the future good acts that will come from this experience will save more lives than what an original $1,400 could have done. At least, if I tell myself this, I can sleep at night...
CM
As soon as I finally got this notion through my thick skull - that I was easily replaceable, that I was not some unique, one-of-a-kind being - an overwhelming humility came over me, almost to the point of feeling utterly insignificant. Such naivety I had to think I was somehow so integral to the good deeds accomplished here. Such naivety I had to think I would be saving the world my coming here...I can't even save one life. In the end, volunteering here often comes down to simply washing dishes, shaving a face, or helping to feed someone. Something that many are able and willing to do.
Before coming here, I thought serving in Calcutta would be the pinnacle of helping humanity and serving others. True, some of the most destitute and impoverished people on the planet live here, but that's not to say this is the almighty of serving. My time here as taught me that it doesn't matter where you are or how you do it, simply the selflessly serving of others - the pure act of this servitude - is what is most important in life (to me). There are so many people in my own country I can help and serve, and staying "home" to help others instead of coming half way around the world to do it in no way diminishes the act. In fact, it perhaps diminishes the act of coming here in the first place. The $1,400 I spent on a flight here could have accomplished infinitely more good had a just sent an organization like "Calcutta Rescue" a check, instead of coming here to serve.
Then again, maybe not. Maybe the act of being here truly is vastly important because now I have seen the worst of the worst with my own eyes and I have experienced it. I have a story to tell and motivation to continue benevolent acts. Had I just wrote a check, perhaps that would have been it...said and done...no more charitable acts and I would have gone on my way. But by coming here and experiencing this, I will never be able to forget the things I've seen and certainly the future good acts that will come from this experience will save more lives than what an original $1,400 could have done. At least, if I tell myself this, I can sleep at night...
CM
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Lost.
A flurry of activity. The head-throbbing pain of incessant honking. Hand-drawn rickshaws, donkey-pulled carriages, elephants, auto-rickshaws, cycles, motorbikes, buses, and trolleys. Stalls and stands selling everything from food to bicycle parts. Street corners laiden with shoe pollishers and beggers. Throw in a few million people and you have an average street in Kolkatta.
But this morning the streets tell a different story. It's five o'clock as I make my usual brisk morning walk from the hostel to the Mother House where if you're late for mass, you're locked out. The sun hasn't crepped over the horizon yet but already the heat and humidity have invaded the narrow street, swooping in like the parent chaparones at a high school dance when you get too close to that new crush of yours. A respite from the heat is impossible. The streets are still lined with men, women, and children sleeping - some underneath make shift tarps and others on top of their food carts. The drug addicts are passed out, their empty bottles and used needles lie next to them. Even the dogs are still sleeping.
Shop gates are just beginning to open. The owners stare out into the street, groggy eyed and tired - perhaps thanking God for the simple miracle that they woke up to see another day. Their faces all express similar emotions - what is this white person doing up so early? The street begins to fill with delicious smells and the crackling of grease as dough is dipped into the frier to make roti and somosas, kotis (a fried sweet shaped as a pretzel) and other baked goodies. Men bathe near a water spout which continually pumps water into a type of bath; small children - not more than seven or eight - are carrying and caring for even younger children, just infants...washing them and feeding them and holding their hands as they walk, preventing them from running off.
As I turn a final corner, a familiar sight greets me - a family of five; a woman and five children. Samil, the oldest at 13, greets me. He and his sister, Rani, act as translators when we run a street clinic in the evening, serving the homeless and drug addicts. They run to me and jump on me, treating me as a human jungle gym as they usually do. But their mother expresses a different look. Her face is grave, and Samil quickly explains to me that two days ago their younger sister who is mentally challenged wandered off and they haven't seen her since. Although she usually wanders off, she always returns within a few hours, but this time is different. They suspect a man, posing as a "Missionaries of Charity" worker who was driving around a van the previous day claiming to be picking up children for one of the MC orphanages, has taken her. I explain again to the mother that MC does not do this and this man is not who he says he is. But to what avail? Although she has reported her missing daughter to the police, there is no picture of her, and little to no chance of finding her. This was three days ago...
Call me calous, I don't care. And yes, perhaps I have grown hard to some of what I have experienced because I myself have no other way I know how to handle it. But such is the life in Calcutta for the average family on the street (many of whom in this small area I have gotten to know personally). All you can do is continue the daily fight for survival, hoping against hope that you will have enough food to feed your family, and that tomorrow, you will wake up to see another day...
CM
But this morning the streets tell a different story. It's five o'clock as I make my usual brisk morning walk from the hostel to the Mother House where if you're late for mass, you're locked out. The sun hasn't crepped over the horizon yet but already the heat and humidity have invaded the narrow street, swooping in like the parent chaparones at a high school dance when you get too close to that new crush of yours. A respite from the heat is impossible. The streets are still lined with men, women, and children sleeping - some underneath make shift tarps and others on top of their food carts. The drug addicts are passed out, their empty bottles and used needles lie next to them. Even the dogs are still sleeping.
Shop gates are just beginning to open. The owners stare out into the street, groggy eyed and tired - perhaps thanking God for the simple miracle that they woke up to see another day. Their faces all express similar emotions - what is this white person doing up so early? The street begins to fill with delicious smells and the crackling of grease as dough is dipped into the frier to make roti and somosas, kotis (a fried sweet shaped as a pretzel) and other baked goodies. Men bathe near a water spout which continually pumps water into a type of bath; small children - not more than seven or eight - are carrying and caring for even younger children, just infants...washing them and feeding them and holding their hands as they walk, preventing them from running off.
As I turn a final corner, a familiar sight greets me - a family of five; a woman and five children. Samil, the oldest at 13, greets me. He and his sister, Rani, act as translators when we run a street clinic in the evening, serving the homeless and drug addicts. They run to me and jump on me, treating me as a human jungle gym as they usually do. But their mother expresses a different look. Her face is grave, and Samil quickly explains to me that two days ago their younger sister who is mentally challenged wandered off and they haven't seen her since. Although she usually wanders off, she always returns within a few hours, but this time is different. They suspect a man, posing as a "Missionaries of Charity" worker who was driving around a van the previous day claiming to be picking up children for one of the MC orphanages, has taken her. I explain again to the mother that MC does not do this and this man is not who he says he is. But to what avail? Although she has reported her missing daughter to the police, there is no picture of her, and little to no chance of finding her. This was three days ago...
Call me calous, I don't care. And yes, perhaps I have grown hard to some of what I have experienced because I myself have no other way I know how to handle it. But such is the life in Calcutta for the average family on the street (many of whom in this small area I have gotten to know personally). All you can do is continue the daily fight for survival, hoping against hope that you will have enough food to feed your family, and that tomorrow, you will wake up to see another day...
CM
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Without Words.
I am truly at a loss for words for much of what I experience, and even if I tried, I don't think anyone would understand...so I'll stop trying.
We've had a great time meeting many new people here from all over the world. In just a short week I have met someone from all six of the inhabited continents - from Brazil to Ireland to Korea to South Africa to Australia (and even one from Burnsville).
Today was our day off, but instead of sightseeing we just took a personal day and sat in the room - relaxing and reading and playing cards. It's exhausting work. Physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually. And this is after one week. I truly don't know how I will make it another two.
It was good to recharge today though...hopefully I will have so happier news in the coming days. At least the people are awesome - I am surely making friendships that I can take home with me to the US and also the world in general.
CM
We've had a great time meeting many new people here from all over the world. In just a short week I have met someone from all six of the inhabited continents - from Brazil to Ireland to Korea to South Africa to Australia (and even one from Burnsville).
Today was our day off, but instead of sightseeing we just took a personal day and sat in the room - relaxing and reading and playing cards. It's exhausting work. Physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually. And this is after one week. I truly don't know how I will make it another two.
It was good to recharge today though...hopefully I will have so happier news in the coming days. At least the people are awesome - I am surely making friendships that I can take home with me to the US and also the world in general.
CM
Sunday, June 20, 2010
"That's Jesus your holding!"
Talking with one of the nuns yesterday, she was telling me a story of one time when she herself was working with Mother Theresa on the streets one day (just a few years ago, of course). They came across a man who was clearly near the end, and one of the nuns with Mama T was helping this man up as he vomited all over her. Turning to Mother, she said she couldn't do this. And Mother Theresa replied, "Yes you can Sister! That's Jesus you're holding!"
The only way I can get through this is to imagine everything I'm doing to/for these people, is to/for Jesus...He will be my strength.
CM
The only way I can get through this is to imagine everything I'm doing to/for these people, is to/for Jesus...He will be my strength.
CM
Missionaries of Charity (MC)
The multilingual chatter of Spanish, French, Korean, English, Hindi, and "Australian" is heard above the roar of the fans as we sip chai tea despite the sweltering heat. It's not even 06:00 am and already I am soaked through my shirt with the intense humidity and temperature rising above 90 degrees. A woman with many years of life experience in a white sari with blue trim successfully manages to get everyone's attention, making the morning announcements and handing out assignments. Mine is "Prem Dan" - is this a name? an assignment? a bus route? a place? My ignorance is quickly noticed by someone who is clearly more seasoned than myself here. Pointing me in the right direction, I find myself walking down the street with a group of people - some look like me, some don't. Some speak my language, many don't. But we are clearly going to the same place. The sidewalk is still lined with people sleeping, naked babies lying close to their mothers, and men bathing in the streets. We flag down a bus, barely coming to a stop we jump on and are amid the hustle and bustle of the Calcuttan morning commute. I am able to at least locate one familiar face and make a mental note of where they sit so that I may be able to get off at the right spot. I sit, exhausted, mentally and physically. It's 07:30, my first day as a volunteer through the Missionaries of Charity, and I haven't even started my first four hour shift.
**After three days...**
Arriving at Prem Dan, I am initially surprised with the cleanliness - this oasis from the dirty and busy streets of Calcutta. In its most obvious form, it is a Nursing Home, a place for those to go who have no family or anyone to take care of them. In the mornings I shave the men, who now recognize me and soon line up to be shaved. I worry I may cut through their loose, delicate skin, and work slowly at first - this irritates them. They tell me to hurry up as they have "things to do." "Things to do" involves sitting and waiting for food and nap time. After shaving many faces, both young (a boy as young as 15) and old (and really old), we serve lunch and put them down for naps. The time in between is spent doing everything that one might need to do for an 80 year old man who can't see, move, or talk - yes, everything. I will save the details for your imagination...
In the afternoons I work at Khalighat, a true home for the dieing. Here the mission is only to provide a place of peace to the dieing, so they may die with dignity and surrounded by love. As hard as it is to go, it's even harder to imagine not going.
"...that with the simple faith of a child, I may rely on Him."
CM
**After three days...**
Arriving at Prem Dan, I am initially surprised with the cleanliness - this oasis from the dirty and busy streets of Calcutta. In its most obvious form, it is a Nursing Home, a place for those to go who have no family or anyone to take care of them. In the mornings I shave the men, who now recognize me and soon line up to be shaved. I worry I may cut through their loose, delicate skin, and work slowly at first - this irritates them. They tell me to hurry up as they have "things to do." "Things to do" involves sitting and waiting for food and nap time. After shaving many faces, both young (a boy as young as 15) and old (and really old), we serve lunch and put them down for naps. The time in between is spent doing everything that one might need to do for an 80 year old man who can't see, move, or talk - yes, everything. I will save the details for your imagination...
In the afternoons I work at Khalighat, a true home for the dieing. Here the mission is only to provide a place of peace to the dieing, so they may die with dignity and surrounded by love. As hard as it is to go, it's even harder to imagine not going.
"...that with the simple faith of a child, I may rely on Him."
CM
Thursday, June 17, 2010
"All Aboard."
After spending a final night in the busy streets of the Indian capital, we boarded a 21 hour train ride to exchange the hot, dusty, auto rickshaw crazed busy streets of Delhi for the even hotter, humid-er, taxi crazed streets of Kolkata. The Muslim influence is much more obvious here, reminding me of Cairo on many occasions. Even the streets, much smaller than in Delhi, remind me of Cairo as there are more taxis than rickshaws and the streets are much narrower making there seem like even more traffic. Kolkata, the second most populated city in India, is obviously known for Mother Theresa and the work she accomplished here. But this is to the grave dismay of many Kolkatans (and Indians alike), as Kolkata represents the art and culture metropolis of India, and was the capital under Imperial British rule. Kolkatans feel Mother Theresa, although doing great things, further underlined and emphasized the worst part of Kolkata to the world, leading to the very one-sided international view of Kolkata that exists today.
But enough history...
Our train ride was long. and hot. and long. Very long. My only relief was opening up the train door as we barreled along allowing more breeze to enter the train car and cabin. The Indians taught me how, so it must be safe... Along the way we met a family from Bangladesh who helped us a find a good hotel in Kolkata for one night before we spent a lot of time looking for a permanent place to stay. We also met an Israeli woman traveling alone who we had dinner with. It was very interesting to talk with her about her knowledge of the latest incident between Turkey and Israel and how much different her account was of the situation than what we believed it to be through an American news source. Later in the day we found a very nice place which we will stay at for the next three weeks.
This afternoon we were also able to locate the "Mother House" - where we will need to register at to begin our work at the "Missionaries of Charity" for the next three weeks. We start tomorrow morning at 06:00 with mass and breakfast. I have no idea what to expect, but I am hoping to find a very rewarding experience (and no doubt will).
CM
But enough history...
Our train ride was long. and hot. and long. Very long. My only relief was opening up the train door as we barreled along allowing more breeze to enter the train car and cabin. The Indians taught me how, so it must be safe... Along the way we met a family from Bangladesh who helped us a find a good hotel in Kolkata for one night before we spent a lot of time looking for a permanent place to stay. We also met an Israeli woman traveling alone who we had dinner with. It was very interesting to talk with her about her knowledge of the latest incident between Turkey and Israel and how much different her account was of the situation than what we believed it to be through an American news source. Later in the day we found a very nice place which we will stay at for the next three weeks.
This afternoon we were also able to locate the "Mother House" - where we will need to register at to begin our work at the "Missionaries of Charity" for the next three weeks. We start tomorrow morning at 06:00 with mass and breakfast. I have no idea what to expect, but I am hoping to find a very rewarding experience (and no doubt will).
CM
Monday, June 14, 2010
Trickster or in Sincerity?
This is an add-on from my previous post dealing with my surprise to the sincerity of our rickshaw driver:
It was to my surprise because it seems everyone here who approaches you and tries to be helpful "Yes sir, what can I find for you?" "Where are you going, sir?" "What do you need, sir?" is just trying to turn a dime and is taking advantage of our American (perceived)ignorance; such that when a person such as this driver is actually acting out of sincerity, you feel bad for assuming the worst. This is something I have noticed in all places of my travel, and is just a frustrating part of foreign travel I think that I cannot quite get over, or moreover have a solution for.
CM
It was to my surprise because it seems everyone here who approaches you and tries to be helpful "Yes sir, what can I find for you?" "Where are you going, sir?" "What do you need, sir?" is just trying to turn a dime and is taking advantage of our American (perceived)ignorance; such that when a person such as this driver is actually acting out of sincerity, you feel bad for assuming the worst. This is something I have noticed in all places of my travel, and is just a frustrating part of foreign travel I think that I cannot quite get over, or moreover have a solution for.
CM
धन्यवाद "Shakria"
After returning to New Delhi from the North we left our guest house morning eager to finally be on our own in India. With the help of new words such as "Shakria" (Thank-you), "Ha" (yes), "Ney" (no), "Hanjib" (yes sir), etc. our fluent Hindi was sure to take us far. After finding a cheap hostel ($4) and buying train tickets to Calcutta ($30 each for AC for a 24 hours ride - we felt it was worth it given the time), we set out in search of the most authentic Indian experience - that of food.
We found Subway.
Try two: after flagging down an auto-rickshaw we learned the driver had been a resident of Sacramento, California for six years and had the driver's license (or at least a good fake) to prove it. Seemingly trying to cheat us, he asked us what we had seen in India. At our hesitation thinking it was a ploy for him to take us on an expensive joyride, he quickly interjected that was not for money but that he wanted to show us his Sikh temple. It (surprisingly - I will address this in a brief follow up post) was a fabulous and sincere experience. The temple was beautiful, and afterward brought us to the Jama Mosjid Mosque, our original destination. We had visited the largest mosque in India once before while we were here on Global, but wanted to see it again. It was wonderfully worth it - this time we climbed the minaret as well.
We then returned to our hostel which is located, believe it or not, very close to where I met my cousins, Morgan and Alexis, here 18 months ago. We are headed to dinner to the same spot in fact...
Tomorrow, off to Calcutta to work at Missionaries of Charity for a month or so.
CM
We found Subway.
Try two: after flagging down an auto-rickshaw we learned the driver had been a resident of Sacramento, California for six years and had the driver's license (or at least a good fake) to prove it. Seemingly trying to cheat us, he asked us what we had seen in India. At our hesitation thinking it was a ploy for him to take us on an expensive joyride, he quickly interjected that was not for money but that he wanted to show us his Sikh temple. It (surprisingly - I will address this in a brief follow up post) was a fabulous and sincere experience. The temple was beautiful, and afterward brought us to the Jama Mosjid Mosque, our original destination. We had visited the largest mosque in India once before while we were here on Global, but wanted to see it again. It was wonderfully worth it - this time we climbed the minaret as well.
We then returned to our hostel which is located, believe it or not, very close to where I met my cousins, Morgan and Alexis, here 18 months ago. We are headed to dinner to the same spot in fact...
Tomorrow, off to Calcutta to work at Missionaries of Charity for a month or so.
CM
Oh, hello Himalayan Mountains.
After a few days in Ludhiana we traveled northeast into Himachal through Parwanoo and Kasauli deeper into the Himalayan Mountains. They look nothing like the Rocky Mountains and are much grander, more elegant, and include people living within every nook and cranny. It is hard to imagine why someone would choose to live here - perhaps they do not have the economic resources to live anywhere else.
The mountain roads are hardly considered a road and are one lane wide, but here we drive close to 30 or 40 kph on them and they become three-lane highways. (See mom, this is what you should be worried about - not Pakistan!) After an exhaustively beautiful drive we arrived at our mountain guest house, provided - yet again - by the Trident Group and complete with its own cooking staff who had prepared tea for us upon our arrival.
We took a short hike up into the mountains to watch the sunset. Along the way we met many children who lived in tin shack "homes" built into the side of the rock, and had somehow managed to clear an open and (relatively) flat area to play cricket. Seeing the setting sun dip below a far off range of mountains, the magnificence of it all made it easy to understand why so many people lived here, even if not by choice.
CM
The mountain roads are hardly considered a road and are one lane wide, but here we drive close to 30 or 40 kph on them and they become three-lane highways. (See mom, this is what you should be worried about - not Pakistan!) After an exhaustively beautiful drive we arrived at our mountain guest house, provided - yet again - by the Trident Group and complete with its own cooking staff who had prepared tea for us upon our arrival.
We took a short hike up into the mountains to watch the sunset. Along the way we met many children who lived in tin shack "homes" built into the side of the rock, and had somehow managed to clear an open and (relatively) flat area to play cricket. Seeing the setting sun dip below a far off range of mountains, the magnificence of it all made it easy to understand why so many people lived here, even if not by choice.
CM
Pakistan looks a lot like India... ((sorry mom))
After traveling North from Ludhiana to Amritsar, we continued North to visit Attari which is on the border between India and Pakistan (sorry mom, I have now been to two of the two most volatile places in the world, the other being North Korea). Our visit was quite an event but was very unique, interesting, worth while. There was a flag lowering ceremony which took place with Indian and Pakistani guards parading around in a choreographed display of "machoism" - each trying to out do the other. Thousands of Indians and thousands of Pakistans cheered as announcers led chants in a typy of high school "pep rally" - I'm sure this display of strength does wonders for the day when these two countries will see peace.
After the ceremony we went right up to the border and, under armed guard, were able to take pictures. Afterwards, we were taken away in the back of a police jeep, most likely due to our VIP status as PK and Durga had arranged for this visit. All in all, it was a very interesting experience - we even saw white people in Pakistan, but when we tried to talk to them and ask what they were doing the guards sent us away...
CM
After the ceremony we went right up to the border and, under armed guard, were able to take pictures. Afterwards, we were taken away in the back of a police jeep, most likely due to our VIP status as PK and Durga had arranged for this visit. All in all, it was a very interesting experience - we even saw white people in Pakistan, but when we tried to talk to them and ask what they were doing the guards sent us away...
CM
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Welcome to India.
Stepping of the plane I was hit with stingy 100 degree humid air and that smell...that smell that cannot be described and is yet in its essence India. Immediately it felt like home, like a welcoming arm had been extended and was pulling me in. After an 8 hour layover in Chicago and a 15 hour flight, I was once again in New Delhi, India - where a "personal bubble" and a line does not exist; where you step of the plane and already surrounded by people - it's as if they are unwilling to disperse because they are not comfortable when surrounded by so many.
After changing my US dollars for Indian Rupees ($241 = 11,086 /r), and having waited for another four hours for Carrie to arrive, we were off with our driver. For the first week, Carrie's step-dad's friend/business partner "PK" has taken care of all our arrangements. Well, actually, to say he has "taken care of us" is the understatement of the century. We were picked up by a chauffeur from the airport and taken to the guest house, where the next morning we were taken to the train station and were informed PK had purchased first-class tickets for the 4 hour train ride North to Ludhiana, where we have been booked (all expenses paid) at an incredibly classy (possibly the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in) "palace". Perhaps in the US a hotel costing $30 a night does not seem like much, but in a country where you can eat for a mere five cents a day, a hotel like this is accessible to only the richest and most wealthy Indians. Needless to say, we feel like royalty.
We were able to have dinner with PK and his family (wife "Mrs. PK" as she called herself, and daughters "Vee-new" and "Sha-new", not sure on spelling but that is pronunciation) last night and they are such wonderful and generous people. Tomorrow night we will be staying with them. In the meantime, PK has arranged all of our travel and sight seeing. Today we visited the Golden Temple and the Jalianwala Barga Memorial in Amritsar, and tomorrow we will visit the textile factories.
PK himself is the owner of the Trident Group (http://www.tridentindia.com) and associates himself with the likes of Durga Galbha, who was at one point the Police Commander for all of India, and is now the Prime Minister's First Officer. Yes, we have been well taken care of.
After Ludhiana we will be heading back to Delhi and then to Pushkar and then to Calcutta where we plan to spend a significant amount of time.
CM
After changing my US dollars for Indian Rupees ($241 = 11,086 /r), and having waited for another four hours for Carrie to arrive, we were off with our driver. For the first week, Carrie's step-dad's friend/business partner "PK" has taken care of all our arrangements. Well, actually, to say he has "taken care of us" is the understatement of the century. We were picked up by a chauffeur from the airport and taken to the guest house, where the next morning we were taken to the train station and were informed PK had purchased first-class tickets for the 4 hour train ride North to Ludhiana, where we have been booked (all expenses paid) at an incredibly classy (possibly the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in) "palace". Perhaps in the US a hotel costing $30 a night does not seem like much, but in a country where you can eat for a mere five cents a day, a hotel like this is accessible to only the richest and most wealthy Indians. Needless to say, we feel like royalty.
We were able to have dinner with PK and his family (wife "Mrs. PK" as she called herself, and daughters "Vee-new" and "Sha-new", not sure on spelling but that is pronunciation) last night and they are such wonderful and generous people. Tomorrow night we will be staying with them. In the meantime, PK has arranged all of our travel and sight seeing. Today we visited the Golden Temple and the Jalianwala Barga Memorial in Amritsar, and tomorrow we will visit the textile factories.
PK himself is the owner of the Trident Group (http://www.tridentindia.com) and associates himself with the likes of Durga Galbha, who was at one point the Police Commander for all of India, and is now the Prime Minister's First Officer. Yes, we have been well taken care of.
After Ludhiana we will be heading back to Delhi and then to Pushkar and then to Calcutta where we plan to spend a significant amount of time.
CM
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Back to India...
So, much to my parents chagrin, I will be headed back to India this summer for two months (June 7th - August 10th) with two awesome people - Bob Koneck who went on Global Semester with me and also Carrie Heiberg who did it just this past fall. We have our visas and plane tickets and are very excited. As time approaches I will continue to update!
Also, I will be attending Purdue in the fall to pursue studies in graduate statistics and am very excited about this! It should be fantastic...I'll leave for West Lafayette on about August 15th, so not much time at home...
CM
Also, I will be attending Purdue in the fall to pursue studies in graduate statistics and am very excited about this! It should be fantastic...I'll leave for West Lafayette on about August 15th, so not much time at home...
CM
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Sexy Woman
Yesterday morning we caught another small minivan/bus out to a ruin called Tombayachay and walked the 8km backed to Cuzco, seeing four or five sites along the way. It was very enjoyable. The views were incredible and it was nice to be out in the country and get some fresh air. It did, however, end up raining on us, then pouring on us, and then hailing on us, pero todo parte la experiencia, ¿no?
In the evening we were going to meet up for Cuy, but it was ridiculously expensive so we tried alpaca steak instead, which I thought was very good. Tasted very tender, and was a thinly sliced piece of meet. We had dinner with one of Sam and Kyle´s friends, Hallie, from their hostal. Afterwards we went to smoke some sheesha and have a few drinks to end our time in Peru.
I am continually amazed at how easy it is to meet people everywhere I go. Clearly, if I was at this for longer I would start to form ¨traveler¨ relationships. The more this happens to me the more I start to think that maybe, just maybe, I could be able to travel by myself, but for the time being this thought still intimidates me.
My flight leaves Cuzco in four hours, and then I´ll have a 14 hour layover in Lima which I´ll use to meet up with some people from Germany I met in Quito, and then home. I have a 90 minute layover in Atlanta to clear customs and recheck my bags, go through security, and find a gate in the busiest airport in America -- sounds like this climatization at high altitudes will come in handy as I sprint through the airport!
¡Choa!
CM
In the evening we were going to meet up for Cuy, but it was ridiculously expensive so we tried alpaca steak instead, which I thought was very good. Tasted very tender, and was a thinly sliced piece of meet. We had dinner with one of Sam and Kyle´s friends, Hallie, from their hostal. Afterwards we went to smoke some sheesha and have a few drinks to end our time in Peru.
I am continually amazed at how easy it is to meet people everywhere I go. Clearly, if I was at this for longer I would start to form ¨traveler¨ relationships. The more this happens to me the more I start to think that maybe, just maybe, I could be able to travel by myself, but for the time being this thought still intimidates me.
My flight leaves Cuzco in four hours, and then I´ll have a 14 hour layover in Lima which I´ll use to meet up with some people from Germany I met in Quito, and then home. I have a 90 minute layover in Atlanta to clear customs and recheck my bags, go through security, and find a gate in the busiest airport in America -- sounds like this climatization at high altitudes will come in handy as I sprint through the airport!
¡Choa!
CM
Monday, February 1, 2010
¨El Puente Está Jodido...Tienen Caminar¨
Yesterday morning, I woke up early and began with me taking a stroll through the San Blas Plaza, close to where I am currently staying. I ran into some gentleman playing guitar and singing, and stopped to listen. After chatting them up in Spanish for a little while, we played and sung some songs together. Then I was invited to join them for ceviche, Peruvian corn beer, at 9 o´clock in the morning. Of course I accepted their invitation (again, sorry Mom). Great experience was had.
Then I met up with Sam in front of the Cathedral and we went to part of the two hour long catholic mass, before heading into the Plaza. Here we ran into some girls from the local school where Sam had been volunteering. They talked about their trip to Pisac the day before and how wonderful it had been. Not having anything planned for the afternoon, we soon realized what must be done.
We hopped in a taxi and made our way to a sketchy bus station, and boarded a minibus bound for Pisac. It cost 2.50 soles (S/) a person (about eight cents); needless to say, we were the only gringos on the bus. After an hour long trip we arrived in Pisac where the bridge had been taken out by the floods, and it was necessary to travel about 1km down river to cross yet another sketchy footbridge. From here, we enjoyed a delicious three course lunch for about a dollar, and made our way through the local market (which is one of the biggest in the area, though no where near as big as the one in Otavalo). Here we ran into some hippie from Oregon, who said ¨I´ve been here five months and I´m not going back.¨ He´s trying to set up and ecolodge, similar to that of Yuchana. I gave him my e-mail and told him to write if his plans succeeded and he needed volunteers. We then grabbed a taxi up to the ruins, and were amazed by their beauty for the next hour and a half.
Upon returning to the city of Pisac, we tried to catch a bus back to Cuzco. You know that you are really experiencing a country and being a sourjourner, not a tourist, when someone offers you a one hour busride for a single US dollar, and you say no because it´s too expensive...we rode back for about fity cents.
Along the way I met a woman from Argentina and spoke to her (in Spanish of course) for about an hour...that was cool. We then departed ways with our new friends (we had also met a guy from Belgium along the way) and hit up a favorite bar in town for some sheesha and Pisco Sours, a delicious Peruvian specialty.
Tomorrow is more ruins, and I´m very excited for those as well.
¡Choa!
CM
Then I met up with Sam in front of the Cathedral and we went to part of the two hour long catholic mass, before heading into the Plaza. Here we ran into some girls from the local school where Sam had been volunteering. They talked about their trip to Pisac the day before and how wonderful it had been. Not having anything planned for the afternoon, we soon realized what must be done.
We hopped in a taxi and made our way to a sketchy bus station, and boarded a minibus bound for Pisac. It cost 2.50 soles (S/) a person (about eight cents); needless to say, we were the only gringos on the bus. After an hour long trip we arrived in Pisac where the bridge had been taken out by the floods, and it was necessary to travel about 1km down river to cross yet another sketchy footbridge. From here, we enjoyed a delicious three course lunch for about a dollar, and made our way through the local market (which is one of the biggest in the area, though no where near as big as the one in Otavalo). Here we ran into some hippie from Oregon, who said ¨I´ve been here five months and I´m not going back.¨ He´s trying to set up and ecolodge, similar to that of Yuchana. I gave him my e-mail and told him to write if his plans succeeded and he needed volunteers. We then grabbed a taxi up to the ruins, and were amazed by their beauty for the next hour and a half.
Upon returning to the city of Pisac, we tried to catch a bus back to Cuzco. You know that you are really experiencing a country and being a sourjourner, not a tourist, when someone offers you a one hour busride for a single US dollar, and you say no because it´s too expensive...we rode back for about fity cents.
Along the way I met a woman from Argentina and spoke to her (in Spanish of course) for about an hour...that was cool. We then departed ways with our new friends (we had also met a guy from Belgium along the way) and hit up a favorite bar in town for some sheesha and Pisco Sours, a delicious Peruvian specialty.
Tomorrow is more ruins, and I´m very excited for those as well.
¡Choa!
CM
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Caballeros
On Friday, we took a guided tour to four different ruins. Allow me to explain what I mean by ¨guided¨ and ¨four different ruins.¨ Our guide immediately disappeared and we were put in a cab with two guys, a korean-mexican woman from Tennessee who didn´t speak English, and us. Then, we ended up at some sketchy farm and were told we were riding horses. Okay, sweet.
After saddling up we ended up visiting only one ruin. haha. oh well. We still had a really fabulous time and the views along the trail were stunning. It was a fabulous experience, albeit a little expensive for what we thought we were getting.
On Saturday, we actually did take a guided tour to a few ruins very far away (two hours by bus), which were incredible. Maybe it wasn´t Maccu Picchu, but at least we were seeing some sweet Incan Ruins; and of course, meeting interesting people.
I always thought I would never be able to travel alone, but after this experience, I think maybe I can. Because every trip we take and every time we turn a corner we start a conversation with some really nice people. For instance, we met a woman from San Fransico with dual citizenship in Egypt, and of course started up a conversation about that...
Good times all around, although maybe a little too much sol too close to the Equator.
¡Choa!
CM
After saddling up we ended up visiting only one ruin. haha. oh well. We still had a really fabulous time and the views along the trail were stunning. It was a fabulous experience, albeit a little expensive for what we thought we were getting.
On Saturday, we actually did take a guided tour to a few ruins very far away (two hours by bus), which were incredible. Maybe it wasn´t Maccu Picchu, but at least we were seeing some sweet Incan Ruins; and of course, meeting interesting people.
I always thought I would never be able to travel alone, but after this experience, I think maybe I can. Because every trip we take and every time we turn a corner we start a conversation with some really nice people. For instance, we met a woman from San Fransico with dual citizenship in Egypt, and of course started up a conversation about that...
Good times all around, although maybe a little too much sol too close to the Equator.
¡Choa!
CM
La Ciudad de Escaleras
After departing Quito and flying through Lima, I arrived in Cuzco to a beautiful sunny day. Where was all the water I wondered? But immediately I began seeing over flowing rivers and and places where the water had clearly been much higher than I was now seeing it. The city is in a valley, and thus all the water runs to the middle. Everywhere I look there are stairs, and I am constantly out of breath even after being in Quito for so long.
My hostel is located high on a side of the valley in a neighborhood called San Blas. Although it is a bit of a trek, the views are definitely worth the hike. After arriving here I was able to meet up with Sam, a guy from St. Olaf I went on Global with last year, which has been nice. My first day here I explored the central Plaza del Armas and the surrounding area; I was also able to get a full refund from PeruRail for my train ticket to Aguas Calientes which was a bonus. We have tried to volunteer but the Cruzo Rojo only needs food, water, and doctors, so we ended up donating a ton of rice and water instead. Contantly there are helicopters flying over the city transporting stranded victims from Maccu Picchu to here and other areas.
I have talked with many people who had been stranded there and evacuated out, seen pictures, and heard horrible stories about what people saw that don´t need to be repeated. And yet, although I am not envious of what these people have seen, I am envious of their experiences; and at times wish I too could have been stranded. (Sorry, Mom.)
¡Choa!
CM
My hostel is located high on a side of the valley in a neighborhood called San Blas. Although it is a bit of a trek, the views are definitely worth the hike. After arriving here I was able to meet up with Sam, a guy from St. Olaf I went on Global with last year, which has been nice. My first day here I explored the central Plaza del Armas and the surrounding area; I was also able to get a full refund from PeruRail for my train ticket to Aguas Calientes which was a bonus. We have tried to volunteer but the Cruzo Rojo only needs food, water, and doctors, so we ended up donating a ton of rice and water instead. Contantly there are helicopters flying over the city transporting stranded victims from Maccu Picchu to here and other areas.
I have talked with many people who had been stranded there and evacuated out, seen pictures, and heard horrible stories about what people saw that don´t need to be repeated. And yet, although I am not envious of what these people have seen, I am envious of their experiences; and at times wish I too could have been stranded. (Sorry, Mom.)
¡Choa!
CM
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Ciclopaseo
On friday we visited the Equator, or ¨El Mitad del Mundo¨. There was a very big monument which was pretty cool. It was built there to commemorate the finding of the Equator in the early 18th century by some really smart dudes. Unfortunately, there were off by about 100 meters (which is pretty incredible when you think about it). Alas, the monument is only a tourist attraction, and you must travel elsewhere to get the real deal... Here, they do a few expierements to prove it´s the Equator. Notably, water spins counter clockwise down a drain in one hemisphere, the opposite in the other, and not at all on the Equator. It was pretty cool, althought I think they may have had magnets somewhere considering the phenomenum existed even just five feet off the Equator.
In the evening we ventured down to ¨La Ronda¨, a closed off street with live music, dancing, good food, and adult beverages. Then we headed to a club and danced the night away.
Yesterday I spent time in Historic Quito, visisting the Bascillica again and enjoying the Old Town. It was great to walk around down there, it really is my favorite part of Quito I think. In the evening we met up for a night of salsa dancing at a local bar with live music. It was great to be the only gringos in the place, and we had a lot of fun.
Today we took part in the Ciclopaseo. Twice a month, Quito shuts down one of its busiest streets that runs from Old Town (south) to the Airport (North), about 25 km, to all cars, taxis, and buses. Thousands of people take to the street on bikes, skateboards, roller blades, and jogging; many of whom sport signs reading ¨un auto menos¨ (¨one less car¨). It was a lot of fun, except that the bikes we rented broke numerous times. Oh well, nothing like getting your bike fixed in some small tienda on a sketch street in Quito - ¡toda parte la experiencía!
Tomorrow we have an oral final, and on Tuesday we head to the hot springs in the mountains. Then it´s off to Peru!
As my time here ends, and my next post probably coming from Cuzco, I can say with definitey that Quito is one of my favorite cities in the entire world (and I feel I can say that with a little authority behind it). haha. I love how busy and laid back it is at the same time, I love the feel of the different barrios (suberbs), and the people are (generally) authentic. I will truly miss it.
¡Choa!
-CM
In the evening we ventured down to ¨La Ronda¨, a closed off street with live music, dancing, good food, and adult beverages. Then we headed to a club and danced the night away.
Yesterday I spent time in Historic Quito, visisting the Bascillica again and enjoying the Old Town. It was great to walk around down there, it really is my favorite part of Quito I think. In the evening we met up for a night of salsa dancing at a local bar with live music. It was great to be the only gringos in the place, and we had a lot of fun.
Today we took part in the Ciclopaseo. Twice a month, Quito shuts down one of its busiest streets that runs from Old Town (south) to the Airport (North), about 25 km, to all cars, taxis, and buses. Thousands of people take to the street on bikes, skateboards, roller blades, and jogging; many of whom sport signs reading ¨un auto menos¨ (¨one less car¨). It was a lot of fun, except that the bikes we rented broke numerous times. Oh well, nothing like getting your bike fixed in some small tienda on a sketch street in Quito - ¡toda parte la experiencía!
Tomorrow we have an oral final, and on Tuesday we head to the hot springs in the mountains. Then it´s off to Peru!
As my time here ends, and my next post probably coming from Cuzco, I can say with definitey that Quito is one of my favorite cities in the entire world (and I feel I can say that with a little authority behind it). haha. I love how busy and laid back it is at the same time, I love the feel of the different barrios (suberbs), and the people are (generally) authentic. I will truly miss it.
¡Choa!
-CM
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Desarrollo Sostenible en la Amazonia.
This past weekend we visited the Amazon Rain Forest and stayed along the Nano River, which is one of the main tribuataires. We began our journey with a short flight (30 min) to Coca and then a 2.5 hour motorized canoe ride up river to the Yuchana Lodge, offering incredible accomadations with beautiful views.
We hiked through the Amazon, seeing spiders, birds, monkeys, toucans, and parots; and tried delicious food such as piranahs, talapia, and I even ate a live larvae...which I most say was quite large. Pictures will certainly need to be shared.
There are so many problems facing indigenious communities in the Amazon, and the most important one is the poverty due to lack of education and public services. The Yuchana Lodge has started it´s own school which focus and teaches only practical applications - farming in the jungle, how to repair outboard motors (which nearly all canoes use) and how to build only relative objects. In a region with a 15% graduation rate, Yuchana boasts one of 64% - clearly something is working.
They also focus a lot on sustainable development in the rainforest. The natives here are encouraged by Yuchana to purchase a $15 solar rechargable LED light, which over the course of 10 years (its average suspected life time) can save a family between $1500 and $2000. In a community whose average annual income is $400, that´s nothing to ignore. Yuchana also focuses on how to purifer water in an energy eficient manner. The brains behind this operation was a bankrupt businessman from Kentucky, Douglas, who moved to Ecuador in the early 1980s, and has since changed the lives of thousands. He was quite the character and I am very glad I got to meet him and talk to him about so many things - he truly inspires change in others.
The Amazon also consisted of playing a huge futbol (that´s soccer for you gringos) game which students from both Yuchana and St. Olaf participated. It POURED for 45 minutes...so much fun! We also did a lot of swimming, hiking, eating, sleeping, and more hiking. The bugs were surprisingly not that bad, but I also wore long pants and sleeves the whole time.
Upcoming adventures include the Equator, Cloud Forests, and natural hot springs at 14,000 ft.
Much Love!
CM
We hiked through the Amazon, seeing spiders, birds, monkeys, toucans, and parots; and tried delicious food such as piranahs, talapia, and I even ate a live larvae...which I most say was quite large. Pictures will certainly need to be shared.
There are so many problems facing indigenious communities in the Amazon, and the most important one is the poverty due to lack of education and public services. The Yuchana Lodge has started it´s own school which focus and teaches only practical applications - farming in the jungle, how to repair outboard motors (which nearly all canoes use) and how to build only relative objects. In a region with a 15% graduation rate, Yuchana boasts one of 64% - clearly something is working.
They also focus a lot on sustainable development in the rainforest. The natives here are encouraged by Yuchana to purchase a $15 solar rechargable LED light, which over the course of 10 years (its average suspected life time) can save a family between $1500 and $2000. In a community whose average annual income is $400, that´s nothing to ignore. Yuchana also focuses on how to purifer water in an energy eficient manner. The brains behind this operation was a bankrupt businessman from Kentucky, Douglas, who moved to Ecuador in the early 1980s, and has since changed the lives of thousands. He was quite the character and I am very glad I got to meet him and talk to him about so many things - he truly inspires change in others.
The Amazon also consisted of playing a huge futbol (that´s soccer for you gringos) game which students from both Yuchana and St. Olaf participated. It POURED for 45 minutes...so much fun! We also did a lot of swimming, hiking, eating, sleeping, and more hiking. The bugs were surprisingly not that bad, but I also wore long pants and sleeves the whole time.
Upcoming adventures include the Equator, Cloud Forests, and natural hot springs at 14,000 ft.
Much Love!
CM
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
¿Te gusta cuy?
To my avid fans, I apologize for not updating sooner, but alas I am only here for a month and do not have time to waste at a computer! :-)
Two weekends ago we traveled two hours north to Otavalo, a small indígenous village where we stayed for two nights with an indígenous family. They spoke absolutely no English, only Spanish and their native tounge of Chequcha. No electricity, no running water, and no refridegerator in the kitchen. Families here make roughly US $300 per year, and anywhere from $100 - $150 of that is spent on candles...want to solve poverty? But them solar recharable lights, an interesting theory -- but we regress. The homes were completely open air, built of sturdy concrete anywhere from one to two levels with an open access roof. The family I stayed with (with one other person on the trip) consisted of a stay at home mom, a dad who worked in tourism (surprise) and five children (one son). The first night we helped to cook dinner by candlelight. They did have a propane stove which made the already hot kitchen unbearable, but away we continued. Soup was a main dish of theirs, consisting often of various vegetables and potatoes. While eating dinner around a single candle, we were asked the question, ¿te gusta cuy? (pronounced koo-ee). Cuy is guinea pig, and sells for anywhere between $10 and $15 in the local market - to call it a delicacy would be an understatment. This would be like offering a complete stranger a brand new car in our society. Of course, we said that althought we never had it we would love to try it...
The next day was spent at the Otavalo Market, which attracts up to 20,000 people on a crowded saturday during the high season. There were great items ranging from alpaca anything to paintings, delicious foods, and jewlery (all authentic, of course). Needless to say, I spent a hefty amount here (now the hard part will be getting it all home). The next morning we helped our host family help another family with various chores - moving wood and cinder blocks and helping plan the foundation of a new building they are adding to the community. To thank us, this other family cooked us a delicious meal of fish, potatoes, rice, cheese, and other ¨interesting tasting¨ foods...but a community that thanks you with food?? Yea, I could live here... Later that day we were able to try cuy, which I really enjoyed - and no, it didn´t taste like chicken. We also swam in the local river and bathed, it was a really cool experience.
On the way home we stopped at Cotapaxi, a beautiful Volcano which has been dormant for some time now and is now filled with water and is a lake. Gorgeous views of both the volcano and city of Otavalo are sure to come...
The last night we spent at a nice hacienda before returning to Quito, where I was welcomed by a hot shower and my own bed.
Two weekends ago we traveled two hours north to Otavalo, a small indígenous village where we stayed for two nights with an indígenous family. They spoke absolutely no English, only Spanish and their native tounge of Chequcha. No electricity, no running water, and no refridegerator in the kitchen. Families here make roughly US $300 per year, and anywhere from $100 - $150 of that is spent on candles...want to solve poverty? But them solar recharable lights, an interesting theory -- but we regress. The homes were completely open air, built of sturdy concrete anywhere from one to two levels with an open access roof. The family I stayed with (with one other person on the trip) consisted of a stay at home mom, a dad who worked in tourism (surprise) and five children (one son). The first night we helped to cook dinner by candlelight. They did have a propane stove which made the already hot kitchen unbearable, but away we continued. Soup was a main dish of theirs, consisting often of various vegetables and potatoes. While eating dinner around a single candle, we were asked the question, ¿te gusta cuy? (pronounced koo-ee). Cuy is guinea pig, and sells for anywhere between $10 and $15 in the local market - to call it a delicacy would be an understatment. This would be like offering a complete stranger a brand new car in our society. Of course, we said that althought we never had it we would love to try it...
The next day was spent at the Otavalo Market, which attracts up to 20,000 people on a crowded saturday during the high season. There were great items ranging from alpaca anything to paintings, delicious foods, and jewlery (all authentic, of course). Needless to say, I spent a hefty amount here (now the hard part will be getting it all home). The next morning we helped our host family help another family with various chores - moving wood and cinder blocks and helping plan the foundation of a new building they are adding to the community. To thank us, this other family cooked us a delicious meal of fish, potatoes, rice, cheese, and other ¨interesting tasting¨ foods...but a community that thanks you with food?? Yea, I could live here... Later that day we were able to try cuy, which I really enjoyed - and no, it didn´t taste like chicken. We also swam in the local river and bathed, it was a really cool experience.
On the way home we stopped at Cotapaxi, a beautiful Volcano which has been dormant for some time now and is now filled with water and is a lake. Gorgeous views of both the volcano and city of Otavalo are sure to come...
The last night we spent at a nice hacienda before returning to Quito, where I was welcomed by a hot shower and my own bed.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Su casa es tu casa.
Having been delayed many hours in Atlanta, our flight finally left and we arrived in Quito at 2:00 am, much to the delight of our host families. My family consists of a mom (Maria), dad (Arturo), and three boys (plus a dog). They are wonderful and my accomadations are superb. I got so lucky, I could not have asked for a better family.
Their hospitality is incredible -- one of the first things they told me was ¨Our house is your house¨ and I have felt completely at home. They speak very little English, if any at all, and refuse to speak even that with me.
In the morning I take the bus to school, which was interesting the first day -- I toke the wrong bus and ended up in some remote part of Quito in the slums in a very poor part of town. But alas I am alive and none worse for the wear.
I am excited to begin exploring the city, and have many ideas of what to see.
So far the only big mix up with the language was telling my Ecuadorian mom ¨Estoy excitado¨ (I´m horny) instead of ¨Estoy emocionado¨...she is still making fun of me for it. :-)
Until next time...
- CM
Their hospitality is incredible -- one of the first things they told me was ¨Our house is your house¨ and I have felt completely at home. They speak very little English, if any at all, and refuse to speak even that with me.
In the morning I take the bus to school, which was interesting the first day -- I toke the wrong bus and ended up in some remote part of Quito in the slums in a very poor part of town. But alas I am alive and none worse for the wear.
I am excited to begin exploring the city, and have many ideas of what to see.
So far the only big mix up with the language was telling my Ecuadorian mom ¨Estoy excitado¨ (I´m horny) instead of ¨Estoy emocionado¨...she is still making fun of me for it. :-)
Until next time...
- CM
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