The island of Santorini is located about 240km south of Piraeus, the main port of Athens. Depending on your mode of transportation, it can be reached between one and eleven hours. One of the larger and more popular islands, it is home to some of the finest Greek vineyards, black sand beaches, perilous cliffs, white-washed homes, and most spectacular views. Staying in the northern most city of Oia offered us prestine beauty and almost no traffic. The ever lasting white facade of the traditional homes and villas fills the side of the mountain until the cliff is too steep to build on, and then suddenly plummets to the clear blue waters 100 ft below.
The seafood is mouth-watering, the gyros tantalize your tastebuds, and with an enticing Mythos to wash it all down one can ask for little more. Our hostel room even had its own balcony from which we could watch the sun leave its final mark before dipping over the impossibly wide horizon. Certainly, life could be worse.
To this place I will certainly return.
CM
Monday, August 15, 2011
11 hour ferry rides.
I am becoming quite good at passing time while staying in objects which transport people from A to B in fashionably long stretches -- 40 hour train rides in India, 10 hour overnight buses in South America, and now, 11 hour ferry rides through the Greek Islands...ahh a true appreciation for the term "slow boat" I now have. The views from the ferry were at first quite nice. But I quickly realized the sea and islands on the horizon don't change much from sun up to sun down (literally). Nevertheless, the ferry was a unique experience.
We were told to arrive and board early so we could have a bench to ourselves, and that was a great piece of advice. Instead of sitting in an uncomfortable plastic chair, or the ground, we had a nice long bench for two people. At first, I thought we were being greedy - but then I looked around and quickly realized most of these benches were occupied by only one traveller, also stretched out in various prone positions. In fact, the whole ferry was covered with backpackers who had laid out their sleeping pads and bags and were covering up every square meter of ferry deck. Walking around reminded me of some type of sleep away camp where you're all in a room together, and carefel not to step on anyone when you wake up to use the toilet at 3 am...ahhh the memories I will cherish...
So, 11 hours later we disembarked on the popular (understatement) island of Santorini. It took two different bus rides to finally reach our hostel in Oia (pronounced ee-AH) on the northern tip of the island, which we did just in time for sunset. Ok, so maybe this journey was worth it. Our hostel had a balcony and terrace over looking the incredibly blue sea and faces west for an uninterrupted view of the breathtaking free "show" each night.
Our first day we took a day trip to a close island nearby to hike an active volcanoe, and swim in the sulfuric hot springs. Since there was no dock we just dove right off the boat into the ocean which was pretty cool. The second day we rented an ATV and drove around the island, stopping at various black sand beaches and wineries, all of which seemed to have a better view than the last. We opted for the cheaper and thus less powerful model -- only a mistake on the uphill parts (did I mention Santorini's topography is the Greek San Fransisco?). Comical at times, we putzed along to our, and at times others, thorough amusement. Indeed, these last few days of the trip were filled with many hours doing nothing, relaxing, and reading on beaches, boats, and cafes overlooking prestine views -- not a bad way to end a month long excursion across the pond.
Tomorrow we'll fly to Rome, and there catch a flight the following day to Chicago before finally coming home to MSP. Then, it's back to school for classes and two new sets of impressionable minds to convince statistics is the coolest thing ever! Ugh...sacreligious to even say the word!
CM
We were told to arrive and board early so we could have a bench to ourselves, and that was a great piece of advice. Instead of sitting in an uncomfortable plastic chair, or the ground, we had a nice long bench for two people. At first, I thought we were being greedy - but then I looked around and quickly realized most of these benches were occupied by only one traveller, also stretched out in various prone positions. In fact, the whole ferry was covered with backpackers who had laid out their sleeping pads and bags and were covering up every square meter of ferry deck. Walking around reminded me of some type of sleep away camp where you're all in a room together, and carefel not to step on anyone when you wake up to use the toilet at 3 am...ahhh the memories I will cherish...
So, 11 hours later we disembarked on the popular (understatement) island of Santorini. It took two different bus rides to finally reach our hostel in Oia (pronounced ee-AH) on the northern tip of the island, which we did just in time for sunset. Ok, so maybe this journey was worth it. Our hostel had a balcony and terrace over looking the incredibly blue sea and faces west for an uninterrupted view of the breathtaking free "show" each night.
Our first day we took a day trip to a close island nearby to hike an active volcanoe, and swim in the sulfuric hot springs. Since there was no dock we just dove right off the boat into the ocean which was pretty cool. The second day we rented an ATV and drove around the island, stopping at various black sand beaches and wineries, all of which seemed to have a better view than the last. We opted for the cheaper and thus less powerful model -- only a mistake on the uphill parts (did I mention Santorini's topography is the Greek San Fransisco?). Comical at times, we putzed along to our, and at times others, thorough amusement. Indeed, these last few days of the trip were filled with many hours doing nothing, relaxing, and reading on beaches, boats, and cafes overlooking prestine views -- not a bad way to end a month long excursion across the pond.
Tomorrow we'll fly to Rome, and there catch a flight the following day to Chicago before finally coming home to MSP. Then, it's back to school for classes and two new sets of impressionable minds to convince statistics is the coolest thing ever! Ugh...sacreligious to even say the word!
CM
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Athena's Acropolis.
Upon finally leaving the small area of town where our hostel is located, I have since enjoyed my time in Athens much more and this city is definitely growing on me. Yesterday we booked our ferry for the island of Santorini, and we'll leave bright and early tomorrow morning (7:20 departure time). Yesterday we visited the Acropolis, along with a few museums. The Acropolis was incredible, and it is amazing the Partheon is still so intact despite numerous attacks and pillages, and being used as a pagan church, christian church, and islamic mosque over the past 2,500 years. Many of the columns are still standing, and even part of the friezes.
The Acropolis can be seen from almost anywhere in Athens, and stands a top a large hill in basically the center of this massively sprawling city. It is still incredibly impressive to stand in the valley of the city, and look up and see the magnificent building(s) standing watch over it all. It's so impressive today -- I can't even imagine how much MORE impressive it must have been in the 5th c. BCE. (The pyramids still hold out in my book as the best thing I've ever seen though...) The new museum of the Acropolis was cool as well (and not only because it was air conditioned when the temperature was 40 degrees celcius -- or about 90F). Unlike many European museums that occupy the space of a once grand palace or villa or estate or government building (the Lourve, Versailles, Ufizzi, Borghese Gallery, etc) this museum was just built recently, is very modern, and I must say it was quite well designed (http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/?pname=Home&la=2).
Today we visited many of the sights a ticket to the Acropolis will allow you entrance for free -- the Roman and Ancient Agoras, Karamikos (ancient cemetary), and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. We also did a little shopping, and enjoyed fabulous gyros with extra tzatiki sauce -- so tasty! Our lunch today was only 4 euro and fabulous! Where as yesterday we felt a little jipped, and ended up paying 35 euro for basically a few pieces of lamb and french fries (labeled on the menu as pitas with lamb, rice, carrots, tomatoes, and onions and potatoes). Oh well, that is traveling...
The ferry ride tomorrow will be long, but I am excited for the islands. Antio!
CM
The Acropolis can be seen from almost anywhere in Athens, and stands a top a large hill in basically the center of this massively sprawling city. It is still incredibly impressive to stand in the valley of the city, and look up and see the magnificent building(s) standing watch over it all. It's so impressive today -- I can't even imagine how much MORE impressive it must have been in the 5th c. BCE. (The pyramids still hold out in my book as the best thing I've ever seen though...) The new museum of the Acropolis was cool as well (and not only because it was air conditioned when the temperature was 40 degrees celcius -- or about 90F). Unlike many European museums that occupy the space of a once grand palace or villa or estate or government building (the Lourve, Versailles, Ufizzi, Borghese Gallery, etc) this museum was just built recently, is very modern, and I must say it was quite well designed (http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/?pname=Home&la=2).
Today we visited many of the sights a ticket to the Acropolis will allow you entrance for free -- the Roman and Ancient Agoras, Karamikos (ancient cemetary), and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. We also did a little shopping, and enjoyed fabulous gyros with extra tzatiki sauce -- so tasty! Our lunch today was only 4 euro and fabulous! Where as yesterday we felt a little jipped, and ended up paying 35 euro for basically a few pieces of lamb and french fries (labeled on the menu as pitas with lamb, rice, carrots, tomatoes, and onions and potatoes). Oh well, that is traveling...
The ferry ride tomorrow will be long, but I am excited for the islands. Antio!
CM
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Two flights and three bus rides later...
Florence to Rome - hour flight. Rome to Thessaloniki - two hour flight. Bus from Thessaloniki airport to bus terminal - one hour. Bus from terminal to Delphi - seven hours. Bus from Delphi to Athens - three hours. But here we are...
Let me back up...
The rolling hills and lush vegetation of northern Greece, pock-marked with Cyprus trees, olive groves, and clay dirt farmlands like the side of a 6th century tower from where the wooden struts once held it assembled - reminded me of the rolling foothills of the Rocky Mountains in New Mexico. Well, kind of. Regardless, it was a lovely scene as we made our way south to Delphi. Our hostel was more of a luxurious hotel with a private bath and balcony, overlooking the valley and coastal area (let's not tell mom and dad we only paid 30 euro for it I think they'd be quite jealous).
We woke the next morning early and toured the Sanctuary of Apollo and Athena before the blistering hot sun reached it's full strength (by then we were safely in the AC interior of the museum). Built in the 4th c. BCE these ruins were older than anything we'd just seen in Italy, and very impressive. Again, to see things that have stood for centuries and to imagine the masons carving it 2,500 years ago is just incredible. A few of the original columns still stand and to imagine what the place must have looked like then is truly miraculous - and what also is amazing is how archaeologists know so much about it!
Our bus ride to Athens was uneventful, but the hostel is clean, has hot water, and we met some great people in the evening. We are a little worried about booking our ferry to Santorini, so tomorrow I think we will take care of that right away. So far my impression of Athens is not all that charming, but hopefully after seeing the Arcropolis and Partheon tomorrow that will all change.
CM
Let me back up...
The rolling hills and lush vegetation of northern Greece, pock-marked with Cyprus trees, olive groves, and clay dirt farmlands like the side of a 6th century tower from where the wooden struts once held it assembled - reminded me of the rolling foothills of the Rocky Mountains in New Mexico. Well, kind of. Regardless, it was a lovely scene as we made our way south to Delphi. Our hostel was more of a luxurious hotel with a private bath and balcony, overlooking the valley and coastal area (let's not tell mom and dad we only paid 30 euro for it I think they'd be quite jealous).
We woke the next morning early and toured the Sanctuary of Apollo and Athena before the blistering hot sun reached it's full strength (by then we were safely in the AC interior of the museum). Built in the 4th c. BCE these ruins were older than anything we'd just seen in Italy, and very impressive. Again, to see things that have stood for centuries and to imagine the masons carving it 2,500 years ago is just incredible. A few of the original columns still stand and to imagine what the place must have looked like then is truly miraculous - and what also is amazing is how archaeologists know so much about it!
Our bus ride to Athens was uneventful, but the hostel is clean, has hot water, and we met some great people in the evening. We are a little worried about booking our ferry to Santorini, so tomorrow I think we will take care of that right away. So far my impression of Athens is not all that charming, but hopefully after seeing the Arcropolis and Partheon tomorrow that will all change.
CM
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Firenze.
I have really enjoyed my time in Florence for many reasons. One of the key advantages of Florence, or Firenze, over Rome is the pace of the city -- traffic is less congested, the number of people is much less, and overall people go through their day much slower. It has been very relaxing even given a city of its size. We have visited the more popular museums including the Academia Galleria where Michaelangelo's "David" is; and also the Uffizi Museum which holds many famous Renaissance pieces including "The Birth of Venus" (which is the painting featured in the introduction to the show 'Desperate Housewives') by Botticelli (c. 1485). One of the coolest pieces for me was a portrait of Martin Luther painted when he was in his 40s...just to imagine and wrap my mind around not only that a piece of art was so old (this obviously not the oldest piece by far) but moreover that Luther had sat for an artist, as he painted this during his life -- a "live" picture of Luther -- was just really cool to think about. We also toured the popular Duomo and climbed to the top. The stairs up slant inward and it was very awesome with spectacular views of the city; which looked as we had all imagined quintessential Florence to look like.
We also spent time shopping at the various shops selling locally produced leather (purses, satchels, belts, wallets, etc), gold (most of the shops being established in the 16th c.), and other valuables. These shops are so old! I have always found it challenging to comprehend the amount of history in so many places in Europe when compared with the relatively (very) short history of the United States.
Today we took a day trip to Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa (all in the Tuscan valley). Of course, seeing the Leaning Tower of Pisa was a definite highlight (and yes, it's still leaning) but I much enjoyed our lunch as well on an organic farm. The meal consisted of four courses including a delicious pasta, greek salad with cheese and boar salami, and let us not forget the four wines we were able to enjoy as well. All our guides at the various locations were fantastic and the day was truly delightful. Tomorrow we will have a leisurely day in Florence, with more shopping and eating and drinking. Then, Shannon and I will continue onto Greece via a flight through Rome to Thessaloniki while the parents have to head home to return to "work" as apparently that's what they do for a living -- such a foreign concept to some of us. I think Shannon may be ready to head home, but hopefully a change of scenery and new country will perk her mood up for a final ten days of travel.
CM
We also spent time shopping at the various shops selling locally produced leather (purses, satchels, belts, wallets, etc), gold (most of the shops being established in the 16th c.), and other valuables. These shops are so old! I have always found it challenging to comprehend the amount of history in so many places in Europe when compared with the relatively (very) short history of the United States.
Today we took a day trip to Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa (all in the Tuscan valley). Of course, seeing the Leaning Tower of Pisa was a definite highlight (and yes, it's still leaning) but I much enjoyed our lunch as well on an organic farm. The meal consisted of four courses including a delicious pasta, greek salad with cheese and boar salami, and let us not forget the four wines we were able to enjoy as well. All our guides at the various locations were fantastic and the day was truly delightful. Tomorrow we will have a leisurely day in Florence, with more shopping and eating and drinking. Then, Shannon and I will continue onto Greece via a flight through Rome to Thessaloniki while the parents have to head home to return to "work" as apparently that's what they do for a living -- such a foreign concept to some of us. I think Shannon may be ready to head home, but hopefully a change of scenery and new country will perk her mood up for a final ten days of travel.
CM
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Five towns, three days, and a beach.
The last few days have been spent in absolute picturesque paradise. And not only that, but traveling with the parents has once again proven to be such a treat and a great Christmas/birthday/next Christmas present! First class train tickets, wonderful hotels with balconies overlooking the ocean, and the most delicious food and drinks at various restaurants! I don't know how I will return to my modest traveling style when in Greece.
Cinque Terra (an area of five ocean side villages connected by foot paths), where we spent the past 72 hours, was a blissful haven of doing nothing except laying on the beach. It was so peaceful, with very few cars, deliciously fresh seafood, a bit of hiking with magnificent views, and LOTS of time on the beach and in the water. Ah yes, this I could get used to...I feel so tan and healthy!
We have just arrived in Florence after a long train ride taking us through La Spezia and the heart of Italy. We ate dinner at a fantastic little pizza place (Tombstone really won't cut it anymore I'm afraid to say which breaks my heart) and enjoyed a quiet night in our hotel in a "tranquillo" part of town -- a word I've truly missed hearing since my time in Quito. A word literally translated as "calm", I have always found it holds so much more meaning when used by locals -- a place of intrinsic calming and peacefulness, a place where one might gain true serenity.
Tomorrow we will start our touring of Florence! Ciao!
CM
Cinque Terra (an area of five ocean side villages connected by foot paths), where we spent the past 72 hours, was a blissful haven of doing nothing except laying on the beach. It was so peaceful, with very few cars, deliciously fresh seafood, a bit of hiking with magnificent views, and LOTS of time on the beach and in the water. Ah yes, this I could get used to...I feel so tan and healthy!
We have just arrived in Florence after a long train ride taking us through La Spezia and the heart of Italy. We ate dinner at a fantastic little pizza place (Tombstone really won't cut it anymore I'm afraid to say which breaks my heart) and enjoyed a quiet night in our hotel in a "tranquillo" part of town -- a word I've truly missed hearing since my time in Quito. A word literally translated as "calm", I have always found it holds so much more meaning when used by locals -- a place of intrinsic calming and peacefulness, a place where one might gain true serenity.
Tomorrow we will start our touring of Florence! Ciao!
CM
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