Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Montezuma

Our last stop included making our way to Montezuma on the Peninsula de Nicoya. We relaxed on the beach, visited a waterfall, and soaked up the last of the Costa Rican sun. Then we made our way back to Alajuela (outside San José) via Puntarenus.

Out last hostel was very nice, and had a free shuttle ride to the airport which was great. Now we are waiting in the San José airport for our flight. Customs in Atlanta and then home sweet home.

¡Bon voyage!

Friday, March 16, 2012

Santa Elena y Monteverde

The trip to come to Santa Elena from Puerto Viejo was very long - a five hour bus ride to San José and another 4.5 hours to Santa Elena from San José.  But the journey was worth it.  It is a gorgeous small town high in the mountains -- the weather is much cooler but also a bit wetter given we are technically in the jungle.

We are staying at "Cabanas Eddy" which is a bit pricey, but has hot water for showers and free coffee all day!  Also, the balcony views are unbeatable and the staff is friendly and helpful.

The first day here we enjoyed a hike through the surrounding area which took us to a large fig tree and you can actually climb up the inside!  It was pretty unique.  In the afternoon we went zip lining through the canopy, which included an 800m "Superman" cable that pits you belly down over a traverse (maybe 300 feet off the ground) and also a "Tarzan Swing".  This swing -- haha wow -- to get to this swing you had to walk out over a rope bridge high above the canopy (250 ft) to a small platform.  Instead of a "swing" it was more of a 200 foot free fall which then extended into a swing.  It was crazy!  When I reached the platform I told the guides, "hook me up fast and push me off before I look down".  They were all to eager to oblige...and I'm so glad they did!  Scared no doubt, but as most things usually are, so worth it in the end!

The next day we visited a humming bird feeder in the morning with ten or twelve species just flying all around you.  In the afternoon we took a tour of a coffee farm, Café Monteverde, where my cousin Alexis interned one summer.  As the small world would have it, the guide (a young woman in her 20s) had a mother from Wisconsin and grandparents in Cannon Falls (right next to Northfield, MN where I went to St Olaf).  Crazy!  Oh, and yes of course, the coffee was truly delicious!

Tomorrow we are getting up early to head to Montezuma on the Peninsula Nicoya -- the journey will include a bus-ferry-bus combination which shouldn't take too long, and we've heard wonderful things about the area so it should be worth the trip.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Pura Vida.

The trip leaving Bocas to Puerto Viejo included a water taxi ride, a taxi to Almirante, a bus to the border, walking across the border, and another bus to Puerto Viejo.  The border crossing was ridiculous.  To get from Panama to Costa Rica one needed to first get their passport stamped, and then pay an exit tax.  This exit tax ranged from nothing, if you didn't know it was necessary (it was never checked later), to three dollars (or one or two depending on the mood of the border officer).  I am not exaggerating and we had heard similar stories from travelers who had already crossed.  To get across the border it was necessary to walk across an old rickety wooden bridge missing many boards and seemed as if you could fall through the remaining rotten planks at anytime.  I don't know what the exit tax went to, but clearly not maintaining this bridge.  Needless to say, OCEA does not exist in Costa Rica.

The remaining bus ride was uneventful and we settled in at "Sunrise" hostel which is really nice - clean and cheap and close to everything.  The best way to describe Puerto Viejo is that although it is not touristy, it certainly would not survive without the tourism it attracts.

In the afternoon we decided it was time to learn how to surf.  I use the words "learn" and "surf" quite loosely, but nonetheless we had a great time.  The black sand beach was very cool as well.  We spent the rest of the day meandering through the small coastal city, eating delicious carribean street food, and enjoying the relaxing life of "Pura Vida".

Four countries, one language.

Bocas del Toro is a collection of small islands off the northwest coast of Panama right next to the Costa Rican border.  A bit touristy it still maintains its laid back charm where everything truly runs on "Panamanian time".  Our hostel, "Calipso", was great and even had a balcony (though no water views for only $10 a night).

The first night we ate dinner on a boat docked to the shore which apparently was the hub of the ex-pats living on the island.  It was truly a sight to behold.  Everyone at the bar was American, over the age of 50, and the golf channel was on.  I think I know where I'm going to retire to.

The first night we decided that a bit of bar-hopping and partying was in order.  After starting with Happy Hour at Mondo Taitu and 50 cent beers we went to "La Iguana", which as I understand it was a scene straight out of Panama City Beach, Florida (according to Kelly who has been there).  

Side story: in Boquette we met two girls from Canada who were also heading to Bocas and traveled there and spent our time in Bocas with them.  While at Mondo Taitu on our first night we also ran into three guys (two Brits and an Aussie) we had seen at the bus stop earlier that morning in David, and ended up partying with them during our time in Bocas.  It was really cool that all seven of us, representing four countries, were just hanging out in Panama - those are the moments I cherish most about traveling.  I regress...

La Iguana was right on the water so one was able to dive right out of the bar into the ocean - pretty crazy.  We had a lot of fun, and only slightly regretted it when we had to be up at 9:00 the next morning for a day of snorkeling and "siestaing" on a white sand beach.  The snorkeling was fun, and we were able to use the "GoPro" that Kelly brought, but was nothing to brag about.  They didn't even give us flippers... Oh well, it was a fun day none the less and I was able to get my first official burn of the trip despite the SPF 85 (no joke) Kelly supplied.  

We returned to nap before heading out for some live reggae/Caribbean fusion musicá at a local bar.  The night was far more chill given our agenda the next day included waking up at 7:30 and crossing the border to get to Puerto Viejo.

Chickens, dogs, cats, (and Panamanian babies), oh my!

Ah, the joys of being 6'4" and taking public transportation.  I feel like I've ranted and complained about this subject enough on this blog so just insert all those rants here.  Ok moving on past the incredibly small confine I was sardined into for six hours from David to Bocas del Toro, the bus ride was really quite pleasant.  In among us were squawking chickens, meowing cats, barking dogs (in AND on top of the bus), and crying babies - whom Kelly held for most of the way.  The bus went up (barely) and over and down a beautiful mountain range on the way north, and crossed over rivers and dams on the way.

When we finally arrived in Almirante, we took a taxi to the ocean and a water taxi from there to Isla Colón (one of the islands that makes up Bocas).  

We immediately recognized the completely different feel of the Caribbean side of the country.  Much more laid back and "tranquillo", we felt as if we were no longer in Panama. The dress was different, the colors of homes was different, and Caribbean flare abounded.

Ex-pat Paradise.

Boquette is an hour west of David (which is six hours east of Panama City) set in the foothills of Panama's central mountains.  Named one of the best places to retire about three decades ago, it is now home to about as many ex-pats as locals...and there is no wonder why.  Its natural beauty and tranquility is enough to bring anyone to peace and an ease of mind.  Beautiful homes built into the surrounding bluffs look over the valley and city of Boquette, whose winding river splits the city in two.  Many of these homes have extensive and beautiful botanical gardens that are free and open to the public - we took advantage of such an opportunity and were amazed at the variety of plants and flowers intermingled with a man made stream running through the property; all well looking over the valley.  Beautiful!  We spent most of the day walking along a road through the bluffs.

After one night we took a bus back to David and continued north to Bocas del Toro.

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Centro Commercial.

If I didn't know any better I'd say we may have just landed back in any sunburban mall I've ever been to...  All the brand name stores you'd expect to see were here from GAP to Victoria's Secret to Ralph Lauren and more.  Expensive boutiques.  A kids' play area.  A food court with McDonalds and Burger King and the likes to match.  Sprawling and intertwined catwalks, escalators, and small vendors in the middle of it all.  But there were some differences - the personal sized pizzas (9") were $2.00.  And when a smoothie cost $0.99, it cost 99 cents - that penny was coming back to you!  (A novel concept really - to list prices INCLUDING the tax.)

Kelly and I are waiting for our bus from Panama City to David - from where we are to catch another bus to Boquette - but have a few hours to kill since the Canal closed at 5:00...well, six hours to kill to be precise.  And attached to the bus terminal is the largest mall in Panama and probably Central America for that matter.  We felt obliged to explore it.

Well, needless to say the first day has been pretty boring and uneventful; but we have high hopes for tomorrow.  I really just can't get over how much it seems like any modern city in America.  One thing that has stood out to me from a cultural aspect is the kindness from complete strangers.  It almost feels like being home with "Minnesota Nice" ...numerous times already in just 24 hours people have offered their services.  More so than any other place I've ever been, I have found Panama to be the most immediately welcoming.

"Staters."

The journey from West Lafayette, IN to Panama City, Panama was exhausting not because of its challenge but its length.  Starting at 6:00 AM I left for Purdue's Airport and I caught a shuttle to Chicago O'Hare and then a flight to Atlanta where I met up with Kelly, a great friend from undergrad.  We hopped on a four hour plane ride (complete with screaming babies and all three children standing 4'3" in front of me reclining their seats all the way) to Panama City.  By the time we made it through customs, haggled over our Taxi ride to the hostel, insisted that our hostel was not full/closed/under water/in a part of town surrounded by Colombian drug lords and would do just fine (compared to the 'best hotel in all of panama' our driver wanted to take us to), it was nearly 11:30pm.  Needless to say, we crashed.  I slept great, even in the non air-conditioned dormroom we were staying in.

This morning we made our way to the Miraflores Locks along the Panama Canal to watch a few tankers and some sailboats come through.  I think I can now say with some authority that once you've seen one lock, you've seen them all...but it was still pretty fantastic given the grandeur of it all.

Tonight we are taking a night bus to Boquette (via David) before continuing on to Bocas del Toro and Costa Rica.